Ottimo Pizza Oakwood: I tried this Leeds independent gem that is setting a new standard for pizzerias in city

The city has a long history of restaurateurs doing it - and doing it well.

So there was intrigue when Ottimo opened in Oakwood in March last year, offering, in its founders’ own words, the promise of “wood fired pizza and small plates, with a focus on seasonality, flavours and textures”.

It was masterminded by pals Paul Bolster, who conveniently owns popular cafe Tasty next door on Roundhay Road, and Nick Julian, who runs Pizza Freak in Kirkstall.

And Ottimo had big, pizza-sized shoes to fill. The new pizzeria replaced Pizza Loco’s permanent restaurant, which was a popular, cult brand before moving to set up shop inside Meanwood Tavern.

My dining companion and I arrive at Ottimo during a quiet spell at the restaurant on a Sunday lunchtime, owing to 50mph winds brought on by Storm Darragh.

The interior here is as stylish as the menu and its social branding. Mediterranean, minimalistic but authentic. Green flower baskets sprawl down the centrepiece partition and there’s simplistic bauble lighting dotted overhead.

Quick tip: While you dine, if you’re facing the street through the tall glass window, you can see Oakwood Clock standing less than 100 metres away. Regardless of the weather, it’s always a lovely restored landmark to marvel at, but especially so while wolfing down pizza.

During our visit, there’s a range of music playing subtly in the background that catches our ear. Stevie and Elvis: we’re looking at you.

Staff are very affable here. From front of house, to service, all the way to the back where chef Russ Croston lovingly prepares the pizzas that adorn tables across this quaint venue. There is an overwhelming friendly vibe.

The main menu is diverse but not overwhelming. There are the usual Mediterranean options of olives, focaccia and burrata, small plates ranging from Caprese salad to antipasti boards and, of course, pizza. Plenty of pizza.

Pizzas are divided into ‘Classica’ - classic pizzas - and ‘Premio’ - more upmarket, premium options with a twist.

Price points seem reasonable, too, particularly considering the current inflation climate. Classic pizzas, which are large, range from £9.50 to £12.50, while premium options could set you back up to £14.50.

There is a selection of good offers available too, including a bottomless brunch package on a Saturday, Wednesday discounts and a slimmed down lunch menu Friday to Sunday.

During our visit, the seasonal Buon Natale festive menu is also in full flow with two courses for £19.95 or three for £24.95. Ottimo is making a real effort with offers and changing seasonal menus, and it shows.

There’s a good selection of drinks. On the beer front, they offer Menabrea, Amity Brewery’s Water Pistol IPA, Ichnusa Non Filtrata and Birra Messina. Cocktails and an impressive gin menu are also listed alongside wine and soft drinks.

I go for the Birra Messina, which isn’t offered at many establishments in the city, and it’s an incredibly crisp Italian lager.

On the food front, to start we settle on the Christmas-themed sage and onion arancini served with a cranberry and orange dipping sauce.

“Cheesey, gooey loveliness,” my companion said with a wry smile, when asked to offer a verdict on the selection.

We also tried the festive toasted rosemary focaccia. This was nice with more than a hint of salt and strong notes of the dish’s namesake herb; which isn’t always a given, believe me.

Now, onto what you came here for: pizza.

We tried the Carne ‘Classica’ pizza from the main menu, which consists of salsicca, spice Italian sausage, nduja sausage, tomato, fior de latte and oregano.

And, given the season in December, our eyes, and belly grumblings, were inexplicably drawn to the pigs in blankets pizza featuring sage and chestnuts. Festive. A note for veggies and vegans: there are plenty of meat-free options to choose from, including an intriguing brie, pistachio and cranberry pizza.

The Carne pizza was simple and delicious. Chilli notes came through with a nice heat but not blow-your-socks-off. The dough is soft and there’s a nice crunch to the crusts without them being overcooked, which happens more than you’d think. Bonus points for the attractive shape.

Verdict on the pigs in blankets pizza?

“It tastes just like Christmas,” my companion exclaims, deadly serious. And it does, almost eerily so it’s that vivid.

Intense flavours of bacon, sage and chestnut ripple through each tantalising slice.

Dips, including pesto Genovese, aioli and truffle oil, can be added as optional extras to accompany pizzas. We’re also offered the off-menu hot honey, which was out of this world and should definitely be incorporated as a mainstay. It is worth the extra couple of quid.

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We’re full to the brim but, in the true spirit of Christmas, opt to try the mulled wine and panettone dessert on the festive menu.

It’s served as a warm glass of mulled wine with two slices of panettone, and a sprinkling of what looks like icing sugar on the latter.

The wine is citrussy and warming, particularly on such a bleak weather day. The panettone is quite stodgy but has nice pops of fruit running through.

It’s a bloated market in this particular area, as independent suburban dining goes, on Oakwood’s bustling Roundhay Road strip which continues to grow in popularity year on year.

But there’s a whole lot to like about this independent gem that serves up pizza - with and without frills - in a cosy setting.

Despite some noisy neighbouring restaurant rivals, Ottimo is managing to stand out from the crowd.

Factfile

• Address: 4484 Roundhay Road, Roundhay, Oakwood, Leeds, LS8 2HU
• Telephone: 0113 805 4858
• Opening hours: Weds-Thurs: 5pm-9.30pm, Fri-Sat: 12pm-9.30pm, Sunday: 2pm-9pm.
• Website: https://ottimo.pizza

Scores

• Food: 9/10
• Value: 8/10
• Atmosphere: 7/10
• Service: 9/10