Ox Club: Accomplished head chef Tom Hunter discusses future of Leeds dining after year behind grill
After a year at the helm of this renowned live fire kitchen, head chef Tom Hunter shared his passion for cooking over flames and reflected on the future of dining in Leeds.
Ox Club, which is set within the lively quarters of Headrow House, has long been celebrated for its bold and meaty dishes that rely on high-quality, seasonal ingredients. It frequently appears among the top recommendations for food in the city, having cemented its reputation as a standout restaurant.
With 20 years of experience leading kitchens across the region, Tom joined the team in January determined to leave his mark.
It came after a move to the city as a teenager, quickly honing his skills in various establishments, from event catering at Headingley Stadium to fine dining at the former Quantro, Live Bait and Simply Heathcotes restaurants.
Later, a 15-year tenure at The Reliance on North Street allowed him to properly explore his craft. But taking the reins at Ox Club a year ago presented a new test - mastering live-fire cooking in a minimalist kitchen setup.
“It has been a challenge coming to a small kitchen without a lot of equipment, other than barbeques,” admitted the 45-year-old. “And cooking over fire brought a change of pace, but it's another feather in my cap.”
He continued: “I knew that I was filling someone else’s shoes, but I had to make my own stamp on the place.”
That stamp came in the form of simplicity, a quality that define Tom’s culinary philosophy. He said: “My food tends to be a bit more humble perhaps than some of the big, extravagant dishes Ox Club has done before.”
“We’ve always been a user of local produce, but we’ve definitely tried to emphasise that a bit more. When something is fresh and seasonal, it’s obviously the best quality - but it’s also usually the most affordable, too, because it’s in abundance.”
Dishes like the grilled partridge with pancetta and white beans, or the rich lamb chops served with garlic cream, cavolo nero, and rosemary and redcurrant jus, showcase Tom’s dedication to honest, straightforward cooking.
“They are absolutely delicious,” he said, “and they taste of Yorkshire.”
Leeds has suffered a surprising number of restaurant closures in recent weeks. In the last three months alone, heavyweights of the city’s food scene including Iberica, Crafthouse, Kino, Psycho Sandbar, and Craig Rogan at The Collective have all folded.
Reflecting on the apparent downturn, Tom said: “I think we’re at the end of a time when people might have spent a week’s wages on a meal. There will be a definite change in the market.
“In London, you see a lot more of the casual bistro-style restaurants. They are offering high quality but affordable food - and I think Leeds will probably follow that trend.”
Ox Club has already started to embrace the shift, he said. “We run a steak and chips deal on Tuesdays, and we always make sure there are affordable specials on the board. We’ll still have the high-end steaks, but to temper that, we’ll have dishes on the other end of the scale too.
“We try to think about the people who are coming into the restaurant - we’re attached to Headrow House which attracts a lot of young people, so we want to be bringing them into Ox Club too, not just their parents.”
Tom’s optimism for the venue’s future is tempered with a pragmatic view of Leeds’ dining scene as a whole. As restaurants face increasing pressures, he said that adaptability and quality will be key to survival.
In the meantime, he remains focused on his new love for live fire cooking, explaining: “In the restaurant, everything is about keeping it simple. It’s honest food done well.”
His technique requires precision and patience, but the results are worth the effort. Beyond the food, Tom relishes the opportunity to share his understanding of the craft.
“I’m passing knowledge on to the guys in the kitchen, and to the customers,” he said, “and I’m being educated too.”
After a year behind the grill, he expressed excitement about the road ahead: “I’m looking forward to sitting down in January to plan out the next year.
“It will be about building on what worked well. There’ll be some good collaborations and plenty of great specials. And at the end of the day, I’ll just try to do what we’re already doing - keep things simple.”