House of Koko review: I visited the third Leeds site of this spectacular Lebanese-inspired brunch spot
House of Koko has become one of the most highly prized spots in Leeds.
Since the first branch of the Lebanese brunch and lunch spot opened in Chapel Allerton in 2015 it has been a savoured and sought-after place, with the comforting atmosphere and unique menu items being worth the journey.
A second venue arrived in Oakwood seven years later as the site's profile spread, and it has now acquired itself the core Leeds site that has long been on the cards.
Having taken over the site that once housed Mrs Artha's, which closed under difficult circumstances earlier this year, everything seems now in place for House of Koko's profile to only grow greater.
The construction of the 369-bed student block on Central Road that stunted the run of trade through the street and contributed immeasurably to the closure of Mrs Atha's has now completed; clearing up the area and inevitably introducing an abundance of new people both living in and visiting Leeds to House of Koko.
The venue retains the other site's penchant for stripped back, inviting style with a modern feel that blends with the Middle Eastern character of the cuisine.
Having spotted the Bloody Mary items behind the bar while waiting for a seat (despite having been booked in beforehand) I opted for a alcohol-free Virgin Mary to start, which was downright delicious in the way that only this most hallowed of drinks can be. Well-rounded, slightly spicy and with a pickled chilli dropped in for good measure, every sip was exceptional.
Choosing what to eat was a tougher choice, having never set foot in a House of Koko before to my great shame.
Despite the calling of fellow signature dishes Muhammara Eggs and Lebanese Hash, I eventually settled on the steak and eggs, which despite its comparatively plain sounding title featured the triple-cooked garlic and za’atar potatoes and muhammara that sounded so enticing from the other plates.
In short, it was banging.
The muhammara - a hummus-like blend of walnuts, red pepper, pomegranate and breadcrumbs - was luscious and gave a thorough, smoked finish to the rest of the accompaniments, all of which were top notch in their own right. The steak was tender and juicy, the eggs were as pleasing as possible and the potatoes were the beautiful, sultry anchor that I hoped they’d be from the description.
Like I said; banging.
There was a lackadaisical, informal approach to the service that may not be to everyone’s cup of tea (maybe I’m getting old, but I feel there’s something unbefitting to being called ‘mate’ during a meal) but otherwise the experience at House of Koko couldn’t be faulted.
As well as the delicious grub and settling atmosphere, the prices are also as you’d expect in this 2025 world we find ourselves in, with my main setting me back £18.95 and the drink costing £6.
I wouldn’t go as far as to say I’m crazy about House of Koko, but boy did it do the business. Don’t be surprised to see other cities going loco for it in the coming years.
Factfile
Address: 18 Central Rd, Leeds LS1 6DE
Telephone: N/A
Opening hours: Monday-Friday: 8am-4pm, Saturday: 8am-5pm, Sunday: 9am-4pm
Website: https://houseofkoko.com/
Scores
Food: 9/10
Value: 7/10
Atmosphere: 8/10
Service: 6/10
Total: 7.5/10