University of Leeds to host first-ever 'medieval fashion show' showcasing 'luxurious' clothes and velvet dresses

Embroidered silk and velvet dresses from the 11th to 16th centuries have been painstakingly re-created for this year’s International Medieval Congress at the University of Leeds.

The show will be staged on the opening night of the conference, the largest academic gathering in the humanities across Europe, which runs at the University from July 7 to 10.

Award-winning textile artist Tanya Bentham will reveal a fine array of opulent silk and velvet costumes that largely focus on elite feminine fashion - with pearls and jewelled decorations signifying the high status of the wearer.

“People were judged by their clothes,” Tanya said, “so it was hugely important to be seen to look right.”

“The type of fur people could wear was limited by law, according to their status. Wool was expensive and so were dyes, so the wealthier families wore brighter and warmer clothes.”

Tanya is a historian, re-enactor, and embroidery artisan who will also provide a commentary unpicking the masterful work that went into creating each of these garments.

The costumes have been recreated based on historical evidence such as manuscripts, paintings and tapestries. There will also be examples of masculine attire and everyday outfits worn by those who got their hands dirty washing the laundry or cooking for their families.

The free-to-attend fashion show is a new addition to a week of spectacular medieval workshops, displays, presentations and performances on offer to delegates and the public.

Modelling the costumes are Dr Marta Cobb, lecturer in Medieval Studies and curator of the IMC’s events programme; Sharna Connolly, Congress Officer, and Dr Rose Lawyer, who runs the virtual component of IMC and is a teaching fellow in the School of History.

Wearing the gold and red dress, Marta said: “I loved wearing this dress. Everything was so beautifully made, including the belt and circlet which were set with lots of tiny stones.

“The fabric was so luxurious and I couldn’t stop ‘swishing’ my skirt. But there was also this amazing feeling of connection with the past. Tanya told me that Eleanor of Aquitane might have worn something similar in her day.”

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Thursday, July 10 marks the day when the public can get a taste of how life looked and felt more than 600 years ago.

Visitors can immerse themselves in the Middle Ages by watching thrilling combat displays, birds of prey and seeing medieval crafts and jewellery by going along to the University Square between 10.30am and 6pm. The theme of this year’s conference is Worlds of Learning.