Cut and Craft Leeds review: I tried the autumn menu at this grandiose steak restaurant - and left speechless

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It’s no secret that Ollie Brearley, master butcher and head chef at The Cut & Craft in Leeds, is a lover of meat - he even has a tattoo of a cutting chart on his forearm.

Located on King Edward Street in a luxurious part of the city - its neighbours are The Ivy and Harvey Nichols - the restaurant's grandiose interior leaves an immediate impression, with high ceilings, sleek marble surfaces and elegant lighting. It set the perfect tone for the evening ahead, beginning with a glass of Moët & Chandon.

Tony Johnson

Our meal started with what the menu humbly described as ‘nibbles,’ but were one of the best courses of the evening. The Cape Wrath oysters were presented two ways: one naked, served with a zesty mignonette, the other Rockefeller style. The fresh, briny flavour of the first oyster was superb and paired expertly with a mini vodka martini made with Belvedere.

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British pork cheek braised in lager, with pieces of cooked apple and chorizo, was next. The meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender, with a velvety gravy poured on top. It was served with croutons, which gave texture, while the charred apple brought a welcome touch of sweetness.

We enjoyed the British pork cheek braised in lager, with pieces of cooked apple and chorizo, as a starter.We enjoyed the British pork cheek braised in lager, with pieces of cooked apple and chorizo, as a starter.
We enjoyed the British pork cheek braised in lager, with pieces of cooked apple and chorizo, as a starter. | National World

Then came the star of the evening: a Chateaubriand, weighing in at a generous 600g, to be shared between two. For a restaurant known for its steak, expectations were high – and they were not only met but exceeded in every way. It was cooked to perfection, the outside seared to a caramelised crust, while the inside remained gloriously pink. I would have been happy with just the meat, but there were a variety of delicious accompaniments too, including a vibrant chimichurri that was an unexpected highlight.

Naturally, there was a rich peppercorn sauce and homemade chunky chips too. Then, we enjoyed a truffle-flavoured macaroni cheese that was indulgent and creamy, alongside a beetroot salad that rounded out the course. To complement the Chateaubriand, we were served a red wine flight featuring Cabernet Franc, Shiraz and Malbec Viognier. Trying each glass added a fun element to the evening.

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Dessert arrived later - a huge white chocolate sphere containing a deliciously sweet peach mousse, alongside homemade honeycomb and a refreshing peach sorbet. It was the perfect palate cleanser after the richness of the main course, which we could not finish and had to be boxed up. The pudding came with a tall, tequila-based cocktail that was just as refreshing, with apricot soda and lime.

The Chateaubriand steak weighed 600g and was made to be shared between two.The Chateaubriand steak weighed 600g and was made to be shared between two.
The Chateaubriand steak weighed 600g and was made to be shared between two. | National World

Finally came the classic cheese board, accompanied by another wine flight - this time featuring dessert tipples including Sauternes, Elysium Muscat, and Craft Tawny Port. Each was delicious, but the port was especially memorable and went fantastically with the piquancy of the cheese.

Ollie Brearley's passion for his craft is clear in every bite, and the attention to detail in both the food and the pairings made this a hugely enjoyable dining experience. The Cut & Craft’s new autumn menu is sure to be a hit, not only because of the premium cuts of steak, but also thanks to the high-quality ingredients playing supporting roles.

I left the restaurant thoroughly impressed and slightly speechless - partly because of the excellent cuisine, but also as a result of being stuffed to the point of exhaustion. This is a restaurant that will delight a steak connoisseur as much as it will someone who appreciates exceptional food.

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