Leeds Opera North restaurant Kino and pop-up kitchen MorMor praised by The Guardian food critic Jay Rayner
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The Guardian food writer visited Opera North’s restaurant Kino, which opened in New Briggate last year and hosts a rotating line-up of up-and-coming chefs. Named after its former life as a cinema, the restaurant is housed in the newly renovated Grade II-listed space below the Howard Assembly Room - adjacent to Leeds Grand Theatre.
Currently occupying the kitchen is Levantine-inspired street food business MorMor, which is inspired by the cuisines, cultures and colours of The Levant – the historical name given to the Eastern Mediterranean.
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Hide AdAnd Jay Rayner was full of praise for the street food kitchen in his review, published on Sunday morning. He said: “Expect dramatic bursts of harissa and tahini, labneh and dukkah. Expect to be cared for.”
His recommendations included the falafel, “creamy at the centre rather than grainy, and lubricated by the fiery red mess of muhammara”, as well as the confited Jerusalem artichoke, “roasted to dark toffeed caramel tones”.
It’s the second time the critic has reviewed the Leeds-based business after another positive review during a residency at Liverpool food market GPO.
MorMor founder Hugo Monypenny told the Yorkshire Evening Post: “It’s great. We had hoped that it would be positive and it's nice to know that we’re doing something good here. It will be a nice boost for the team. Everyone works really well together, making nice food - and I think everyone will be buzzing.”
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Hide AdMorMor’s residency at Kino will come to an end in April, but Hugo has pop-ups and festivals planned for the rest of the year - including at Number 8 cocktails, Bottle Chop and Eat Your Greens.
During Rayner’s trip to Leeds, where he studied politics as a student, the critic also enjoyed wine at Quebec Street restaurant Sous le Nez, as well as going for lunch at Kirkgate Market. He praised his mackerel bun from Turkish grill Mr Mackerel, which he said was “probably the best £5 you can spend on lunch anywhere in Leeds right now.”