Fearns Leeds Dock review: I tried this chic bar inside the co-working space that’s making offices cool again

There is a generation of young, athleisure-clad go-getters for whom the conventional office day – with its water cooler gossip and drab cubicles – would be inconceivable.

Instead, they start their meetings with the energising wallop of a Negroni. They sink into deep sofas to work on their projects, their focus fine-tuned in spite of the thumping beats.

And they do it in a space like Department, which last year opened an attractive bar and restaurant.

Fearns is named after an island in the waterways of Leeds Dock, not far from where the kitchen itself stands. It’s small, with around 25 tables bathed in a calming, natural light, thanks to generous floor-to-ceiling windows.

At 1pm on a Monday afternoon, it felt obscene to be ordering a boozy cocktail, but no one batted an eyelid. The Tommy’s Margarita, with El Jimador Blanco tequila, lime and agave, was both sharp and sweet, with a delicious syrup rim on an elegant coupe glass.

It’s one of the classic cocktails at Fearns, which I chose after bar staff explained that the more experimental signature cocktails were not available.

It was a shame – the ‘Bacon is Good For Me’, my first choice, sounded unmissable with whisky, bacon and maple syrup. But not to worry, I’m quickly told that there will be a brand new drinks menu from next week.

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With the Margarita, I enjoyed an indulgent plate of deep-fried smoked tofu, enoki and oyster mushrooms, with Roquette butter and miso glaze on sourdough bread – or mushrooms on toast for posh people.

I later revisited an old favourite, a Negroni. This one was enormous, with Tanqueray gin, Campari and Antica Formula vermouth. For all that the ruby red Italian aperitif was bitter, its fruity sweetness was there in heaps.

The bill, which included lunch, came to just under £30, which seemed entirely reasonable.

My co-working afternoon in this trendy city-centre neighbourhood was eye-opening in many ways. In a world where monotonous remote working is the standard, Department offered a compelling argument for a return to the shared experience of office life.

And the excellent cocktails at Fearns certainly helped.

Factfile

Address: Department, 4 The Blvd, Leeds, LS10 1PZ

Telephone: 0113 856 3400

Opening hours: Mon-Tue, 8am-6pm; Wed-Fri, 8am-6.30pm; Sat, 9am-6.30pm; Sun, 9am-6pm

Website: bookings.quadranet.co.uk

Scores

Drinks: 9/10

Value: 7/10

Atmosphere: 8/10

Service: 9/10