House of Koko Leeds review: Here's what I thought of the Chapel Allerton cafe's new brunch menu

And sitting in House of Koko staring at the world-inspired brunch options, I was presented with a very difficult decision. Let’s rewind. On a morning off this week, I paid a visit to the Chapel Allerton cafe (there’s a second in Oakwood). It only does brunch, so there’s little room to hide.

The decor is effortlessly cool and there was a real buzz to the place - ladies chatting away, an older gentleman reading the paper and parents entertaining young children with one hand while they tucked into food with the other.

I choose a comfy sofa seat and staff bring over the new menu - which brings us to my predicament. Yes, there’s eggs and toast, sausage butties, ‘Bennies’ and vegan American pancakes.

But it’s the House of Koko twists on brunch dishes from around the world that really got me excited. There’s Turkish eggs, hot honey hash with Korean and Japanese influences, a Moroccan-spiced aubergine zaalouk and vegan rasam-spiced lentil and coconut dahl.

I’d ordered and finished a (beautifully creamy) cappuccino by the time I’d picked the bubble and squeak. But this isn’t bubble and squeak as you know it. It’s a saag aloo potato cake served with an onion bhaji, a poached egg, chapati and rasam broth.

It’s a stroke of genius. The potato cake was true to the Indian flavours I grew up eating and the perfectly-cooked poached egg burst and coated the hash, while a flattened-out onion bhaji on top gave the dish some texture.

The little dollops of spiced carrot puree were delightful and garam masala cauliflower puree brought a nice earthiness to the dish. The chapati was the only thing to let it down - it was chewy and overdone on one side.

Washed down with orange juice, the total bill came to a reasonable £16.99 including service charge. I did have to send two knives back which had bits of food stuck to them, and the floor and some of the chairs needed a good sweep - partly testament to the number of customers who had already been through the doors by noon.

I will be back - and I’ll be making my way through the entire menu.

Factfile

Address: 62 Harrogate Road, Chapel Allerton, Leeds, LS7 4LA

Telephone: : 0113 262 1808

Opening hours: Sun-Thurs, 9am-4pm; Fri-Sat, 9am-5pm

Website: https://houseofkoko.com/

Scores

Service: 6/10

Atmosphere: 8/10

Food: 8/10

Value: 8/10