Bavette Horsforth: Renowned food critic Jay Rayner raves about 'effortless charm' at celebrated Leeds bistro
One of the country’s top food critics has heaped praise on a Leeds bistro, describing it a place where “effortless charm is the currency”.
In a glowing review for the Financial Times published today (May 31), renowned critic Jay Rayner raved about Bavette, the much-loved neighbourhood restaurant that opened in Horsforth last year.
The piece praised both the kitchen’s bold, confident cooking and the restaurant’s relaxed, stylish atmosphere. It is the latest in a series of accolades for Bavette, which was named the best local restaurant in Britain by the Good Food Guide in July.
In the review, Jay described the venue’s cervelles de canut - a whipped fromage blanc dish with herbs and garlic - as being “thick with the happy insistence of tarragon, and dressed with chopped chives and a dribble of walnut oil”.
He also said that chef Sandy Jarvis, who runs the restaurant with husband Clément Cousin, “approaches everything with finely calibrated largesse”.
The service, too, was singled out for praise. Jay wrote: “Service is charming, because effortless charm is the currency here.”
The Bavette team responded with delight in a post on Instagram that said: “Wow what an amazing review to wake up to. We’ve been nervously waiting for a couple of months since Jay Rayner came in front of dinner, not knowing if / when the review would come out.
“But it’s certainly worth the wait. A huge congratulations to all the team, a fitting write up of their hard work and passion every day.”
The review is the latest in a string of accolades for Bavette, which was crowned the best local restaurant in Britain last July and earned a coveted mention in the Michelin Guide within its first year of opening.
Sandy, who learned to cook while studying chemistry in Manchester, and Clément, a natural wine expert, previously worked together at London’s Terroirs restaurant, where they first met.
They’ve since brought their shared love of French-inspired cooking and warm hospitality to West Yorkshire, with Bavette’s ever-changing menu showcasing dishes like steak tartare and comté croquettes.