Ohana Leeds review: I tried the Grand Arcade’s new Hawaiian restaurant - and it’s an absolute gem

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When fresh ingredients are the star, you don’t need much else to make the dish shine, and it’s a concept that Ohana has nailed.

The Grand Arcade restaurant opened last summer, specialising in Hawaiian poke bowls. We visited on a quiet Friday evening, and were immediately struck by the warm but contemporary decor - olive green walls, simple wooden tables and a carefully-lit centerpiece bar. It was pretty chilly, though, another heater would have been welcome.

Owners Chester and Crystal hail from Hong Kong, a city known as a melting pot of international cuisine. And that’s reflected in the Ohana menu, which is led by a fusion of Hawaiian and Japanese flavours and premium whiskies from around the world.

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Our reviewer tried Ohana, a Hawaiian and Japanese inspired restaurant in the Grand Arcade, LeedsOur reviewer tried Ohana, a Hawaiian and Japanese inspired restaurant in the Grand Arcade, Leeds
Our reviewer tried Ohana, a Hawaiian and Japanese inspired restaurant in the Grand Arcade, Leeds | National World

You can pick from six signature poke bowls, or build your own from scratch. A whole page of the menu is dedicated to explaining some of the lesser-known ingredients and their health benefits, from bonito flakes (dried, fermented bonito fish) to wood ear mushrooms (an edible fungus, rich in iron and fibre) and wakame seaweed (rich in vitamins and minerals).

And if you don’t fancy a poke bowl, there’s also a selection of small plates and other mains - from prawn tempura curry to crispy chicken and steamed rice.

After much deliberation, we decided to share the vegetable gyoza to start, which were crisp and packed with umami flavour.

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I went for the Veggie Bliss Bowl for my main - a base of mixed rice and green salad, with mushroom and asparagus tempura as an alternative to fish, topped with wood ear mushroom, cucumber, red onion and egg shreds and seasoned with spring onion, chilli flakes and sesame seeds.

The Veggie Bliss and Ocean Delight poke bowlsThe Veggie Bliss and Ocean Delight poke bowls
The Veggie Bliss and Ocean Delight poke bowls | National World

The rich, earthy tempura mushrooms - perfectly crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside - paired well with the fresh bites of cucumber, red onion and green salad. I was impressed by the quality of ingredients, which were all brought together beautifully by a drizzle of yuzu ponzu, a citrus-based soy sauce.

My friend was equally as pleased with her Ocean Delight Bowl - a base of sushi rice and green salad, topped with chunks of raw sushi salmon, sweetcorn, red onion, cherry tomatoes and avocado, seasoned with spring onions, bonito flake and crispy onion.

Considering the quality of ingredients and hearty portions, prices are reasonable. The veggie bowls cost £13.50, while the traditional seafood poke bowls are priced between £15-18.

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Ohana opened last summerOhana opened last summer
Ohana opened last summer | National World

There’s a brilliant drinks menu too, including the range of whisky, plenty of other spirits and bespoke cocktails. I tried the mango chilli margarita with a curry-flavoured spice mix on the rim, which was certainly an acquired taste, but I loved it.

Ohana is the Hawaiian word for family, and that’s how customers are made to feel. Crystal, who heads up in the kitchen, hand-delivered the food to our table. Meanwhile Chester worked his way around every group, and when he asked how our food was, it was from a place of genuine care. And their baby was quietly sleeping behind the bar, with a YouTube video of ducks on the TV to soothe them - adorable.

Ohana is a shining example of what an independent business can offer. Warm hospitable service and simple cooking at its very best.

Factfile

Address: 10-11 Grand Arcade, Leeds, LS1 6PG

Opening hours: Sun-Mon, closed; Tues-Thurs, 1pm-10pm; Fri-Sat, noon-12.30am.

Scores

Atmosphere: 8/10

Food: 9/10

Service: 9/10

Value: 8/10

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