Mommy Thai review: I finally visited this esteemed street food style restaurant in Leeds city centre

After the mad rush of the festive break, restaurants and bars are left comparatively barren as January starts up and people try to get their heads and wallets around what the next weeks and months will look like.

On Vicar Lane in Leeds city centre though, the numerous Thai and South East Asian spots that line the streets had attracted a surprising bustle of people enjoying an evening meal in spite of the freezing temperatures.

After months of hearing of its allure I had finally got round to trying Mommy Thai, not realising it was in such direct proximity to stellar alternatives like Thai a Roy Dee and the original Zaap Thai in the Grand Arcade.

I couldn’t help but wonder if I’d missed a trick after getting the lowdown on the former’s unabashed, authentic offering, and felt especially so after our Mommy Thai experience left my admittedly lofty expectations unfulfilled.

With corrugated walls donned with framed pictures of the menu items and wobbly tables with food served on plastic plates, Mommy Thai leans more into offering an authentic street food experience that transports you to Khao San Road rather than a savoured sit down meal.

Taking recommendations from our dedicated waiter after trying to pore through the expansive menu, the service was direct and personable and the food was served with striking efficiency from the open kitchen.

For my starter I actually took my lead from a gent who came in specifically for a portion of Esan Sausage to take away (£8.50), immediately intrigued by his choice.

When they came served with a raw and enlivening salad of peanuts, fresh chilli, garlic and ginger, I couldn’t help but wish I’d not been so hasty. The helpings of fermented rice and pork sausage were nothing but unique, but perhaps proved a bit too potent a dish to kick things off with.

Feeling like I had to finish my portion before receiving my main, they also left me with a diminished appetite as my helping of Pad Kee Mow (£10.95) with crispy chicken arrived instantly. The egg noodle dish, served with a melange of tender vegetables and sharp spices, was perfectly adequate but didn’t quite hit the sweet hearty-and-wholesome spot I was looking for; with the chicken being more chewy batter than meat and an oily overload being quite off-putting.

Our meal had a slight Veganuary side to it too, despite my guest warning that those of the no-animal-products persuasion can struggle at Thai restaurants due to their frequent and sometimes overlooked use of fish oil.

But he was more than happy with his helpings, enjoying the tofu satay (£6) to start, which was served with a nice helping of sweet chilli sauce and garlic. This was followed by more tofu, which he said in both cases was delightfully balanced between crispy and soft, in a beautiful, fragrant Gang Leung curry (£10.95).

My sample of the latter dish probably gave me the most satisfaction of the night, but despite my at-times questionable experience I can definitely see myself coming back, especially considering the affordability and meal deals advertised. But the temptation of Thai a Roy Dee next door will have to be scratched first.

Fact file

Address: 110 Vicar Ln, Leeds LS2 7NL

Tel: 0113 450 7263

Open: Sun-Thurs, 12pm-10.15pm; Fri-Sat, 12pm-10.30pm.

Scores

Food: 7

Atmosphere: 8

Service: 8

Value: 8

Overall: 7.75