Highland Laddie: Acclaimed critic Jimi Famurewa hails 'spectacularly enjoyable' pub lunch in Leeds
A renowned food critic indulged in a three-hour pub lunch in Leeds, before labelling it “spectacularly enjoyable” in a glowing national review.
Writing in The Observer, Jimi Famurewa heaped praise on The Highland Laddie on Cavendish Street, the Victorian redbrick that underwent a huge refurbishment earlier this year.
It was previously known as The Highland and had been closed since 2023, leaving regulars at the traditional boozer bereft. But now it’s back open, the watering hole is winning acclaim from experts in the industry.
Famurewa vividly described the venue’s fusion of traditional northern pub culture with an ambitious, creative menu that “feels, at its best, like a thrilling rip in the space-time continuum”.
He highlighted standout dishes including the vindaloo devilled eggs, tandoori chicken drummers, and ‘sliced ham from the fire’ served with house-baked dinner rolls.
The “unusually juicy, golden wave of pork schnitzel” came accompanied by “two fried eggs, glimmering anchovies, and a verdant drenching of caper butter”.
Famurewa also praised the grilled peaches dessert, calling it “a messy, air-punching power ballad to early summer’s bounty”.
The Highland Laddie’s founders, Sam Pullan and Nicole Deighton, were recognised for their “alluring restoration” work at the similarly acclaimed Empire Cafe in the city centre.
In a post on Instagram, the team said they were “absolutely made up” with the review, because Famurewa “completely got what The Laddie is about as a pub”.