Kirkstall Brewery Taproom review: I tried Marmite pizza in Leeds and now I can't go back to regular toppings

In a controversial move that’s sure to have its naysayers, much-loved Leeds institution Kirkstall Brewery has put Marmite on a pizza.

The infamously divisive yeast spread is popular with those in possession of a refined palate, and detested by those unable to process flavours more complex than beans on toast.

I’ve had this pizza on my bucket list since perusing the menu at the brewery’s imposing taproom, on Kirkstall Road, months ago.

There was no convincing necessary – I’ll eat the stuff slathered on toast, stirred into pasta and, ashamedly, with a spoon directly from the jar.

The pizza is called the ‘Marmite Rarebit’ and it’s the obvious star on a page of the menu dedicated to creative and experimental flavours.

Atop a gorgeously fluffy dough, there are three cheeses: Fior di Latte Mozzarella, Red Leicester and Gran Moravia Parmesan. More than generous. There’s black pepper and chives, too.

But the headliner is what we came for – and it gave one hell of a performance. The intensely rich and savoury bechamel, made from the brewery’s Virtuous IPA spiked with a dollop of the sharp and definite Marmite, was divine. I’d love to meet the mastermind behind the recipe.

True to its name, it feels more rarebit than pizza – like an elevated cheese on toast. But don’t mistake it for something simple. It’s an odyssey of flavours worthy of Homer.

From the first bite, the bechamel brings an incredible depth of Unami goodness. Then, the three cheeses bring the tang. The parmesan, in particular, adds a nuttiness that brings a thoughtful roundedness, demonstrative of the effort that’s gone into making it.

Testament to the generosity of the pizzaiolo is the weight of each slice. It’s a two-hand job – and I find myself folding them up to shovel in as much as possible. There’s no dainty knife and fork action here.

I enjoyed the Marmite Rarebit with a pint of Virtuous, a match made in flavour heaven. The crisp, citrusy and sufficiently strong beer goes head-to-head with the pizza quite impressively.

We visited the taproom on a bouncing Friday night when the venue, that’s been decked out like an old-fashioned watering hole, was alive with students. And the chill in the air was soon forgotten with the warmth of pizza and booze.

To the sceptics, I’d say: give this Marmite pizza a try. It would be easy for the Marmite-phobes to lose their bottle with a menu as enticing as this. There’s a pizza with honey and stilton, another with tuna and ‘nduja, and a third with chorizo and goats cheese.

There are classics too, like Margherita and Pepperoni, but don’t pick up something you could get elsewhere. Go for the Marmite. It’s not too strong – it’s a hint, a suggestion, but enough to make it special.

Why not embrace the boldness? It could be your new favourite. Despite the condiment’s iconic tagline, I’m confident there’ll only be a handful of haters – and a whole lot of lovers.

Factfile

Address: 100 Kirkstall Rd, Leeds, LS3 1HJ

Phone: 0113 898 0280

Website: kirkstallbrewerytap.co.uk

Scores

Food: 10/10

Value: 8/10

Atmosphere: 8/10

Service: 8/10