Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Brasserie: Behind-the-scenes at the Leeds rooftop restaurant celebrating the Great British Summer

Harvey Nichols’ Fourth Floor Brasserie takes its diners on a seasonal journey through the year, celebrating Yorkshire’s finest produce.

Head chef Lee Heptinstall steered his team through the pandemic and has enjoyed watching diners flood back to the restaurant.

Although it has been challenging to find staff over the last year, Lee said the atmosphere is better than ever.

“Hospitality has definitely bounced back,” Lee, 53, told the Yorkshire Evening Post.

“We were always going to, because people love eating, drinking and socialising.

“The time away from it makes you reflect on yourself.

“We’re not trying to overdo anything now - overwork dishes or overwork ourselves. We’re trying to get a nice balance of everything.”

“I’m like a fine wine, I’ve gotten better with age,” Lee laughed.

The Ossett-born chef took up the post at Harvey Nichols eight years ago and his repertoire includes fine-dining restaurants Holbeck Ghyll and Middlethorpe Hall.

He’s constantly finding new ways to ignite tried-and-tested flavour combinations - and the competition in Leeds keeps him on his toes.

Lee said: “It’s constantly growing - new places coming up, new ideas and new little street vendors.

“You have to keep yourself busy and go out and eat, finding new ideas.”

The Fourth Floor Brasserie has just launched its summer dining menu, bringing back its 3/3/3 format - three vegetarian dishes, three fish options and three meat dishes.

“We’ve tried to make it as summery and refreshing to eat as we can,” Lee said.

“I love the starter of beetroot terrine cooked in lamb fat, with braised lamb shoulder, hazelnuts and goats cheese. Even though it sounds a bit heavy, it’s light and full of flavour.

“We’re trying to utilise anything that’s at its highest quality, as always - and it’s then at its best price point as well.

“We’re roasting tenderstem broccoli down with the mackerel dish, for example, and we’ve got a pea risotto on with sun-blushed tomatoes.”

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The summer set menu has dropped down to £25 for three courses and a glass of Chandon garden spritz, recognising that diners are having to tighten their purses.

Lee added: “Everyone has seen price rises everywhere, and we have as well.

“But as a chef it’s a great challenge to create nice food at that price point.

“There’s enough stuff out there that you can do it, you just have to think carefully and work a bit harder with certain things.”

Lee picks up inspiration from social media, eating out and leaning on the knowledge of flavours he’s picked up throughout his career.

“As a team, I try to get everybody involved,” Lee added.

“We all chat about it and bounce around our ideas - looking at what’s in season and what we can do to make it more interesting, making it as flavoursome as we can.”

There’s plenty on at Harvey Nichols for the rest of the year - including partnerships with drinks brands to diversify the offering.

“And we’re gearing up for Christmas,” Lee said.

“It’s only round the corner!”