Grand Pacific at the Queens Hotel review: I tried the high-end restaurant nestled in this landmark Leeds hotel

It was a mild Wednesday afternoon when the imposing art deco hotel, carried by a sea of technicolour balloons, was sent soaring through the skies over Leeds before gracefully landing on City Square.

Or so the PR team at the Queens would have you believe, with their whimsical 20-second CGI clip promoting the ‘relaunch’ of the venue that was recently purchased by new Swedish owners for £53m.

I was invited to stay overnight at the Grade II listed hotel as part of the celebrations, but not before joining the team for an indulgent, Asian-inspired three-course lunch, which included plenty of wine.

After being greeted at the door by waiters dressed in pastel suits and carrying technicolour balloon bouquets, guests were taken through to the lobby where champagne was served, alongside a selection of fruity cocktails.

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They included rose margaritas and an electric blue curacao-laced mixture, presented in a coupe with an enormous bubble on top that released fragrant rosemary when popped.

But the magic truly started when we were walked through the illustrious Grand Pacific restaurant, nestled snugly at the back of the hotel, into an opulent private dining room that had been filled with balloons.

So many, in fact, it appeared like a jungle, their strings like vines hanging from the ceiling.

The first course of the evening was duck gyoza, presented elegantly with a sweet potato, miso and hoisin sauce. The meat was succulent and wrapped in delicate parcels that had been pan-seared to golden perfection, the sauce aromatic and sweet. It was mouthwatering, and left me craving more.

Onto the main, a tender roast chicken breast served with a mushroom ragout and edamame. Almost impossibly juicy, it was a luxurious take on home comfort food. The sauce was velvety and shiny, and earthy in taste, with light green vegetables offering bright and refreshing contrast.

Later, the mango soufflé arrived. Cloud-like in texture, it was served with a mango sauce for pouring into the dessert, making it burst with tropical flavours.

There was also a toasted coconut ice cream on the side, alarmingly black in colour but, beyond the perplexing hue was hidden a wealth of flavour. Rich, creamy, and infused with the aroma of coconut, it left a lasting impression.

The menu at the Queens was exceptional and, although this was an invite, I would normally have spent in the region of £30, excluding wine – of which there was copious amounts. Not an unreasonable price tag, considering the impeccable service and the stunning art deco surroundings, which only heightened the experience.

It was evident that no expense had been spared in celebrating the relaunch of the Queens. And if the standards are kept to these impressive heights, I have no doubt that this decades-old institution will hold onto its reputation for at least another century.

Factfile

Address: City Square, Leeds, LS1 1PJ

Opening hours: Mon-Thur, 12pm-12am; Fri, 12pm-1am; Sat, 11am-1am; Sun, 11am-12am

Website: https://www.grandpacific.uk.com/

Scores

Food: 10/10

Value: 8/10

Atmosphere: 10/10

Service: 10/10