I limed with the locals to discover the other side of Barbados and you should too

Dawn has just broken over the wild Atlantic and the rest of the world is asleep as waves crash on to the south-eastern shore of Barbados at Sam Lord beach, right next to Wyndham Grand Barbados, Sam Lord’s Castle All-Inclusive Resort. The shore is a chaotic and exhilarating contrast to the flat and idyllic Caribbean Sea on the island’s western shores where most tourists stay.

The red flag is firmly up here, the lifeguards not yet on duty, but that hasn’t stopped the pockets of older locals who have ventured to the calmer spots to sea bathe first thing, to hang out and to chat or ‘lime’ as one chatty chap tells me. They place their clothes across the wild branches of the nearest sculptural palm and gather in the more sheltered shallows, laughing and teasing each other. Life here is good.

We watch from our perch on the beach, small buckets filled with treasures we have foraged from the sands, and we draw freehand, my lack of talent evident in contrast to Sheena, a contemporary artist of international repute who just happens to be from right here. She used to play on this beach as adventurous child, she tells me, before her talent took her the USA as a Fulbright scholar. Later she returned home to challenge her diagnosis of Lupus - she is a warrior.

I’m the Guinea pig for this experience with lovely Sheena Rose, this soul soothing dawn forage and art session taster for a regular programme of events here at Wyndham Grand Barbados, Sam Lord’s Castle All-Inclusive Resort. It was named after the now derelict castle in its grounds which was built by the Barbadian bad-ass buccaneer Samuel Hall Lord. He amassed the great wealth which funded the grand mansion by luring in ships using hanging lamps. Instead of finding safe harbour, captains sailed their ships into jagged reefs, where they were plundered to fill coffers.

As the name implies, the modern hotel property is huge and sprawling along the stunning coastline, its extensively and exotically planted grounds ring several immaculate whitewashed blocks and numerous pools, bars and restaurants - dotted with wooden cabanas for luxury lounging which are rarely full. It’s an all inclusive idyll which never seems busy, with staff at hand when needed.

We are staying in floor three of the main block, our room large and ocean facing, a generous balcony for sunset watching. Our room features a queen sized bed positioned to make the most of the view, and a luxurious bathroom featuring a free-standing bath and separate shower, toilet and marble topped sounded sink, festooned with Molton Brown products.

Our kitchen area, complete with regularly stocked fridge (all included), also boasts a coffee pod machine and plenty of tea and coffee options. It’s pretty impressive and, I’m told by a secret squirrel, the week before was home to the King of Jordan’s aide de camp - the King himself stayed in the suite next door. They were here to celebrate Barbados independence celebrations. Barbados became became independent from the former British West Indies federation in 1966. In 2025 it was celebrating 59 years and its fourth year as a republic with a parade and the installation of its second president Jeffrey Bostic. This pride is self evident everywhere you go.

On the grounds is the brand new Island of Essence spa, run by spa manager Tracey, who was talent hunted from her hugely successful stint at industry-leader Sandy Lane. She’s built the spa from the ground up, with world class facilities and ESPA products - her previous clients include Simon Cowell. Her attention to detail is second to none. “I planted these myself” she says of the yellow flowered bushes adorning the huge central relaxation room. Outside, she’s working to plant up the pool area and transform the space with pods so guests can choose to take treatments outside next to the spa’s private pool.

I enjoyed the signature 90 minute Vitality Ritual followed by a sumptuous couple’s lunch in the spa itself - still in my dressing gown with the husband - an almost surreal luxury experience which I cannot recommend enough. I also tried the hot stone massage another day and it was incredible.

Friday night means only one thing in Barbados. We take the hotel’s complimentary shuttle bus down the road to Oistins, a fishing village on the south side of Barbados with a reputation for the best seafood and its weekly ‘Fish Fry’ market experience. Unavoidably touristy but unashamedly fun with roots in authentic, freshly cooked food (and rum).

It’s an early start to enjoy our next adventure, boarding a catamaran to cruise the coast and swim with the remarkably tame sea turtles. ‘They are the dogs of the sea’’ laughs our snorkel guide from the Silver Moon luxury catamaran cruise. It’s a compelling experience as the turtles glide past followed by shoals of silvery fish. Back on board we laze and are served drinks and lunch, crafted right there on board, by the polite and attentive crew as we glide past blonde sand beaches and beachfront property that may or may not belong to famed local - Rihanna.

Another day, another first for me - a Monkey Zip Line adventure. We take a taxi through Barbados ‘green interior to Harrison's Cave Eco-Adventure Park where we buckle up and swoop from tree to tree like forest creatures amid the rainforest before gearing down into the ground for a cave experience to admire the stalactites and stalagmites. It’s an eerie, must-see, learning voyage and a shock to break back out into to the sunshine.

Back at the resort we spend an inordinate amount of time eating as part the hotel’s all-inclusive offering. The Mediterranean Market restaurant offers bountiful buffet style food which changes every mealtime and is inspired by cuisine from Portugal, Spain, Greece and North Africa as well as Barbados itself. It’s very difficult to choose but you can always have a prosecco while you ponder - it’s a problem worth having.

We also tried glam beach bar style at Sam Lords castle bistro, there’s even a swim up bar. For a little late drink or evening glamour with a more a la carte style, there’s is Castle View - in the shade of Sam Lorde’s castle itself. You can walk along the property’s beach path to dine in a more refined environment with friendly table service and a menu of steak and seafood with some delectable puddings and a great wine list.

A well kept secret is the Burnt Cask Rum Bar where you can enjoy a rum flight and learn about the history of Barbados rum from the expert bar managers. It offers a large selection of rum and rum-based cocktails from the Caribbean and around the world. I now know how to taste rum properly which will be my new party trick.

Thanks Barbados and all my new friends, I’ll be back to’ lime’ some more.

Example package: From £1,982pp for a seven-night stay at Wyndham Grand Barbados, Sam Lord’s Castle All-Inclusive Resort based on two adults sharing a Deluxe Room with a Resort View departing on 28 September 2026 from London Heathrow with Destination2. Price correct at the time of pitching and is subject to availability.