Review: Olive and Rye, Leeds

The arcades of Leeds are home to some wonderful independent shops, bars and cafes which strive to offer something special.
Olive and Rye. PIC: Jonathan GawthorpeOlive and Rye. PIC: Jonathan Gawthorpe
Olive and Rye. PIC: Jonathan Gawthorpe

It was in this spirit that chef and owner Joe Hepworth opened Olive and Rye, a deli store with a 44 seater cafe and restaurant in Queens Arcade.

His well-established venue in the nearby Thorntons Arcade, Hepworths Deli, was packed on the day we called by so we decided to try the new kid on the block.

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Walking in, you are first greeted by the deli and its fabulous displays of cheese, meat and homemade produce.

A friendly server led us through to the tastefully decorated dining space with its pretty fairy lights. A soundtrack of laidback pop added to the relaxing atmosphere, although the low lighting and hushed tones made it feel a little subdued until the cafe filled up.

This is a venue that’s very much aimed at the foodies out there and it doesn’t stop at brunch, lunch and small plates – there are pop-up restaurants, cheese tastings, coffee cupping sessons and more.

Although the cafe was not particularly busy when we arrived, the two pleasant servers seemed a little flustered throughout our lunchtime visit.

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It felt a little late for the brunch selection but several others chose the delicious-looking hot smoked salmon with poached eggs, toasted muffin and spicy Hollandaise, which I later wished I’d chosen.

The jars of potted meats and parfaits with toasted breads (£6.50) were very tempting, but I plumped for the Reuben – a flavoursome sandwich of peppery pastrami, homemade sauerkraut, russian dressing and swiss cheese served in rosemary foccaccia, one of the breads of the day.

My friend chose another of the sandwiches – a Wagyu minute steak with chili jam and dressed rocket – on sunblushed foccaccia and added a side of sweet potato fries.

A mix-up meant our sandwiches were served in the wrong bread and our fries arrived later, but we didn’t have the heart to make a fuss and put it down to teething problems in the first weeks.

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The generous portions went down well with my friend who made light work of his tasty meal, but I found the bread a little chewy and the amount of filling made it a messy eat.

We both found the slaw on the side a little bland and an unnecessary addition to the oversized serving boards used.

We rounded off the meal with a wickedly gooey slice of gluten free chocolate cake (£2) and, with a latte (£2.50) and an elderflower Fentimans (£2), the bill came to just over £20.

Although it wasn’t the perfect first encounter, there’s great potential here and we’d happily return once the team has had time to bed in.

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