Why this 350-year-old fan unearthed in Leeds reveals a scandalous tale of the Trojan War

The stunning 350-year-old fan, unearthed in Leeds, that helped tell the story of the Trojan War

A jaw-dropping 350-year-old fan hiding a tale of beauty, betrayal and war is being brought back to life by experts in Leeds.

Natalie Raw, Leeds Museums and Galleries’ curator of costume, with a collection of fans.placeholder image
Natalie Raw, Leeds Museums and Galleries’ curator of costume, with a collection of fans. | Leeds City Council

The exquisite hand fan, dating back to the 1680s, depicts the legendary moment when Trojan prince Paris chose Aphrodite as the fairest of three goddesses – a decision that would ultimately lead to the abduction of Helen and the fabled Trojan War.

Now the remarkable relic is among more than 400 historic fans being carefully conserved at Leeds Discovery Centre.

Mostly dating from the 18th and 19th centuries, many of the fans’ elaborate designs portray scenes of love taken from Greek or Roman mythology, colourful birds or Far Eastern imagery and were once a must-have accompaniment to any lady’s outfit in high society.

Natalie Raw, Leeds Museums and Galleries’ curator of costume, with a collection of fans.placeholder image
Natalie Raw, Leeds Museums and Galleries’ curator of costume, with a collection of fans. | Leeds City Council

Natalie Raw, Leeds Museums and Galleries’ curator of costume, said: “Although today we usually think of fans just being used to help us cool down in the hot weather, in the 18th century no lady’s dress would be complete without one.

“As well as being a beautiful fashion accessory, they were also associated with the idea of flirtation and the imagery painted on them would often signify themes of love and courtship.

“At dances and social gatherings, a lady might use subtle gestures with their fans, such as a flutter or a glance over the top, to attract attention or express she was interested in someone. 

“These behaviours led to the popular belief that fans could be used as part of a secret code of communication between men and women.

“Today, they still look just as stunning and also give us a fascinating insight into how the use of elaborate and beautiful accessories has evolved over the centuries and what this tells us about the relationship between fashion and society.”

Natalie Raw, Leeds Museums and Galleries’ curator of costume, with a collection of fans.placeholder image
Natalie Raw, Leeds Museums and Galleries’ curator of costume, with a collection of fans. | Leeds City Council

Many of the fans in the Leeds collection were gathered in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when acquiring antique fans became a popular hobby for wealthy ladies such as Lady Gascoigne of Lotherton and Dorothy Una Ratcliffe, a glamorous socialite who married into the wealthy Brotherton family of West Yorkshire.

The fans collection can be seen at Leeds Discovery Centre, as part of regular store tours, with several examples also currently on display at Lotherton as part of the Botanically Beautiful exhibition.

Coun Salma Arif, Leeds City Council’s executive member for economy, said: “The many stunning examples of fashion and costume in the Leeds collection really do bring home the creativity and imagination of designers through the ages and how they captured the themes and trends of their individual eras.

“Our whole collection is an incredible archive of millions of years of history and it’s wonderful that the people of Leeds are able to visit and be inspired by it.”

Leeds Discovery Centre is open to the public for pre-booked tours and is a Give What You Can museum, where visitors are invited to donate to support the museum if they are able.

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