Why The Ivy Harrogate still brings a dose of decadence and quality to spa town

Part of The Ivy Collection of brasseries, the Harrogate branch was the first of this diffusion chain to be launched in Yorkshire, soon followed by York and Leeds. It’s happily situated on Parliament Street, next door but one to Betty’s, a prime position although not fail-proof, as the closure last year of Jamie’s Italian, just a few doors down, illustrated.

First impressions

The interior is spectacularly welcoming, a sweeping bar down one side and luxurious caramel leather banquette seating on the other, pristine white tablecloths, proper pale green Ivy napkins, cutlery and glasses glistening classily. The signature harlequin leaded windows pay homage to the original Ivy, as do the gallery walls of bold and colourful paintings and botanical prints. There’s a domed glass atrium in the centre, bringing light as you travel further in, and at the end, there’s a garden with a stone fireplace, mirrors and a paradise of planting (currently a collaboration with Jo Malone).

The waiting staff wear a traditional, French-style waiting uniform with black waistcoats and white aprons, which looks chic and cool. The female greeting staff wear tight, uncomfortable looking, bright red dresses, which I, for one, am less fond of.

What’s the menu like?

The Ivy Harrogate prides itself in offering modern British dishes and seasonal menus. A La Carte starters include Crispy Duck Salad and Steak Tartare, mains Fish & Chips, Monkfish & Prawn Curry and The Ivy Hamburger. Our visit for the purpose of this review took place before the summer menu came in, so some seasonal dishes have changed. There’s a set menu, available Monday to Friday, 11.30am to 6.30pm, which costs £16.50 for two courses and £21 for three. It’s limited, with only three or four dishes per course to choose from, but it’s great value.

Now onto the food

To start I had the Endive & Stilton Salad (£6.50), a concise but pretty mound of luscious apple, endive, watercress, celery, cranberries and more, with creamy, tangy stilton and a sprinkling of caramelised hazelnuts. Decidedly delicious. It’s not on the current menu so instead I would choose Crab & Apple Salad (with watermelon and radish but a bit more pricey at £11.95). My dining partner chose the Duck Liver Parfait, which is still on the menu but has had a small price increase this new season from £6.95 to £7.25. It’s a round of pate served with hazelnuts, truffle, tamarind glaze, a pear and ginger compote and toasted brioche. Toast peeps out from under a napkin on a separate side dish. It’s these little touches that make the dish and The Ivy feels special.

My main was The Ivy Shepherd’s Pie (£13.95). A signature dish, it did not disappoint. Again served as a round, alone on the plate, a lower layer of slow-cooked lamb and beef, with Wookey Hole Cheddar Mash on top and a jug of rich gravy on the side to pour over at the table. It was dense, intense and incredibly good, although it does need greenery and I wished I had picked the Creamed Spinach (£3.95) to go with it.

My dining partner chose the Chicken Bourguignon (£16.50), another hearty dish consisting of a flat-iron chicken with crispy skin, creamed potatoes, chestnut mushrooms and lardons, with a large sprig of watercress on top. He said it was tender and tasty and enjoyed it thoroughly, although it was quite a hefty dish. It’s not on the menu this season so an alternative might be the Chicken Milanese (£15.95). Although full, we felt obliged to try dessert, which for me was the Chocolate Bombe, another Ivy signature and great fun.

It arrives as a ball of chocolate with a pan of hot salted caramel sauce which the waiter, possibly for reasons of safety but certainly for a touch of drama, pours over the ball which melts to reveal its innards of vanilla ice cream and honeycomb. The combination of hard and gooey chocolate, crunchy honeycomb and all that melting creamy stuff is pure heaven. Best not to get addicted, I should think.

For wine we chose a Grenache Blanc (£19.75), not being red wine drinkers. I was pleasantly surprised at the price, considering the quality.

How much was the bill? Was it value for money?

The bill came to £105 including a discretionary 12.5 per cent service charge which we were happy to pay as staff were friendly, welcoming, accommodating and professional. The food was beautifully served and of excellent quality.

The restaurant was fairly bustling (it was early evening) and an excellent place for people watching. Broadly speaking, The Ivy seems to have been welcomed by Harrogate, despite the usual mutterings about chain restaurants eating the independents.

This decidedly upmarket chain restaurant continues to impress and has brought to the Yorkshire town a special brand of glamour, comfort, quality and artful decadence not experienced since its late Victorian heyday as grand spa retreat. If then. What’s not to like? Definitely value for money on this occasion.

FACTFILE

Address: 7-9 Parliament Street, Harrogate HG1 2QU

Telephone: 01423 787 100 Opening hours: Monday - Saturday: 8am-12.30am (Last booking 10.30pm) Sundays & Bank Holidays: 9am-12.30am (Last booking 10pm)

Online: https://theivyharrogate.com/

Ratings:

Food: 9/10

Value: 9/10

Atmosphere: 10/10

Service: 9/10