Restaurant review: The Corner Cafe, Burley Road, Leeds

That there was such a gorgeous little curry house down on Burley Road? That it boasts an effortlessly welcoming service the like of which people like me sometimes (very very very occasionally) dream about? And that the food is good and it’s so affordable that you make a mental note to self before leaving that this could be your new favourite Indian restaurant?

Well, you know now. It’s called The Corner Cafe. With a name like that and given its general location, I have to say I was expecting something along the lines of breakfast-in-a-bap, pre-made custard creams and coffees done black or white with a blissful ignorance of anything which involves a barista (amen to that, anyway, by the way).

However, The Corner Cafe is none of these things. It’s not that easy to spot, either, as there are no garish signs, no glaring neon. Instead, it just suddenly appears alongside you as you amble along Burley Road towards town. As its name suggests,it is on the corner of the aforementioned road and Westfield Terrace, ensconced in a building which both blends in and stands out in equal measure, if that makes sense. It blends in, because of the lack of signage and by virtue of its urbane red brick exterior and one glance at the tall, boxy windows, you could be forgiven for thinking this was, in a former life, a launderette or some other quite functional business. Once found, however, you suddenly realise it harbours a quiet confidence. The entrance features a substantial looking faded pine door, above which is an elaborate art deco fresco. Inside, there are more hints to former grandeur and the greeting is immediate and really rather welcoming. Service counts for a lot in the restaurant trade and people hanker for the genuine article - well, here, they have it in bucket loads.

The business was, apparently, established in 1976. That is has survived is something to be celebrated. Opposite stands the former The Queen pub, which succumbed to the endless ebb and flow of commercialism and became a Tesco Extra some years ago. Which is why we need to savour places like The Corner Cafe.

Actually, this was my second attempt at dining here. I attempted to ‘drop by’ several weeks earlier, mistakenly thinking that the place would be near-as-damn-it empty and begging for the trade. Not a bit of it. It was packed to the gunwales.

Our return visit was pre-booked, however but even then, there were people wanting to get into this place and ever so politely being told ‘no room at the inn’, which has to tell you something.

The welcome was faultless, assured, polite but not overly deferential. The inside is split into ground floor seating, with a mezzanine above.

We began with the pickle tray and popadums - chunky lime pickle, lashings of fresh yogurt, with its slightly sour, herby aroma, decent mango chutney, et al. All good.

I started with fish pakora (£4.95) from the specials board. What a dish. The fish was piping hot and just melted in the mouth, the batter soft, light, crispy, served with salad and a wedge of lemon. Delightful. My partner had a shami kebab (£3.75), which was also good.

Next up was mutton massala. Yes, mutton! Bravo. Why we have to eat poor little lambs all the time is entirely beyond me. Mutton, on the other hand, which at least gives the poor animal a longer stay on earth, is an undiscovered land, a pasture that has been left fallow for far too long and very well ought to be re-entered and enjoyed all over again. The flavours here are much more complex than lamb, they are more developed, a little gamier and more robust. It’s a curry to warm the embers.

Our second choice, though, was a too salty for us both, a chicken and kablichana (a kind of chickpea) korma (£8.55). We also ordered garlic and coriander naan (£3.20) and pilau rice (£2.95) and finished off with espresso ice cream (£4.25 per serving). So often, this is where even better than average Indian restaurants fall down, some still offering up the dreadfull ice-cream-in-a-toy. Not here. Here, the ice cream is home made, or feels like it at least.

I was also pleasantly surprised to find Northern Monk’s Faith being offered here (they make a point of working with local breweries) and even more taken aback when given the choice of it being service at room temperature or from the fridge. The final bill came to a snip over £60. Plus (another mental note to self), they do a take away service.

It’s places like this that make a community. In the turbulent tides of the modern era, they are the rocks to which barnacles cling, the landmarks by which the wary seafarer might navigate.

And mark my words, once you have discovered it, you’ll want to return.

Factfile - The Corner Cafe

Address: 104, Burley Road, Leeds, LS3 1JP

Telephone: 0113 234 66 77

Opening times: Weds to Fri 6pm-10pm, ​Sat 5pm-10pm, Sun 5pm-9pm, closed Mon & Tues

Website: www.cornercafeleeds.co.uk/contact

Scores

Food: 8/10

Value: 9/10

Atmosphere: 7/10

Service: 9/10