Shears Yard Leeds: Innovative chef Jamie Clinton on decade of 'relaxed fine dining' at top restaurant

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Exposed brick walls, low-hanging lightbulbs and exceptional yet simple food - it’s the effortlessly cool Leeds restaurant that has, for the last decade, been taking the stuffiness out of fine dining.

Shears Yard is as precise in its design as head chef Jamie Clinton is in his approach to creating dishes. After a career in kitchens across Yorkshire, he told the YEP he wanted to “push boundaries” at his Wharf Street restaurant, while creating a space for fine dining to feel accessible.

The 40-year-old’s entry into the culinary world came as a teenager, when he picked up a part-time job in a pub kitchen near home. His passion for cooking quickly took hold, and he moved up to sous chef at a hotel. After a stint at Hazelwood Castle in Tadcaster, he developed his own style at the now closed city stalwart Arts Cafe.

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After a career working in kitchens across Yorkshire, head chef Jamie Clinton said he wanted to “push boundaries” at his restaurant Shears Yard, on Wharf Street, while creating a space for fine dining to feel accessible.After a career working in kitchens across Yorkshire, head chef Jamie Clinton said he wanted to “push boundaries” at his restaurant Shears Yard, on Wharf Street, while creating a space for fine dining to feel accessible.
After a career working in kitchens across Yorkshire, head chef Jamie Clinton said he wanted to “push boundaries” at his restaurant Shears Yard, on Wharf Street, while creating a space for fine dining to feel accessible. | Simon Hulme

It was in 2013 that his team found the ideal space for their next project at the site of the former Live Bait seafood restaurant near The Calls.

“We wanted to do something modern,” said Jamie, from Barnsley. “Arts Cafe was quite a casual lunch place, and I wanted to push the boundaries a bit more. This space was contemporary but it felt relaxed, it wasn’t stuffy at all. We knew we could up our game at Shears.”

He found inspiration in the raw, industrial vibe of the building and worked with an architect to let the space’s original brickwork shine. Since opening, it remains an incredibly cool setting where diners can enjoy anything from formal meals to casual drinks - which is a reflection of Jamie’s own style.

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Jamie, 40, from Barnsley, said that he strives to cook the food he would want to eat.Jamie, 40, from Barnsley, said that he strives to cook the food he would want to eat.
Jamie, 40, from Barnsley, said that he strives to cook the food he would want to eat. | Simon Hulme

He said: “My philosophy is to cook the food I want to eat. The best feeling is when you write a menu and people can’t pick a dish because they want to try everything.

“I don’t want to pigeonhole the restaurant into being a specific genre. I just want to use seasonal ingredients, and local where possible. As long as the food tastes good, and I’m putting a smile on people’s faces, I’m happy. I like to think of it as relaxed fine dining, that’s what my style has become.”

He continued: “When we first opened, the reception was really good. But then we were reviewed at a really bad time. I was away from the kitchen because I had broken my hand, and we had a lot of intricate dishes on the menu.

“The review was scathing - but it made us realise that everything needs to be do-able, whether I’m there or not.”

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Despite the setback, the focus remained on simplicity and flavour. Over time, Jamie said that menus have become more simple, with dishes crafted to be repeated perfectly each time.

“Just because you can do foams and froths, it doesn’t mean the dishes need them,” he said. “We’ve simplified things over the years.”

The team worked with an architect to allow the building's raw, industrial vibe to shine.The team worked with an architect to allow the building's raw, industrial vibe to shine.
The team worked with an architect to allow the building's raw, industrial vibe to shine. | Simon Hulme

Nonetheless, the menu at Shears Yard is constantly evolving, and Jamie said that he is a firm believer in letting high-quality produce speak for itself.

It draws inspiration from all corners of the world, with dishes that incorporate Asian seasonings and misos to enhance classic flavours. One standout dish is the tuna tartare with sushi rice, ponzu, bonito emulsion, pickled daikon and nori.

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“The idea is a deconstructed sushi roll,” he explained. “It eats better when you get a bit of everything on your fork. The flavours are what matter most, not necessarily how uniform it looks on the plate.”

Running a restaurant in the city centre comes with its share of challenges, and the last few years have seen Shears Yard navigate both the impact of the pandemic and the ongoing cost-of-living crisis. But Jamie’s adaptable approach has helped the business survive - and even thrive.

“One thing we’ve done well is adapt to the world around us,” he said. “We have a day menu, and I also wanted to do a tasting menu - but I didn’t want it to be formal or stuffy. I like that it appeals to people that can’t decide what they want, so they can have a bit of everything.

“We also look at things like weddings and corporate events. Everything is bespoke - we sit down with clients and talk through their plans. If they want sticky toffee pudding and vanilla ice cream, we will do them a really good version. If they want something more wacky, we’ll come up with something.”

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As Shears Yard moves into its second decade, Jamie said that he remains focused on continuing to evolve the restaurant’s offering.As Shears Yard moves into its second decade, Jamie said that he remains focused on continuing to evolve the restaurant’s offering.
As Shears Yard moves into its second decade, Jamie said that he remains focused on continuing to evolve the restaurant’s offering. | Simon Hulme

His favourite dishes at the moment? The fresh fish. He said: “When it’s cured or ceviche style, I like doing those the most.”

Jamie added: “I’m not normally a dessert person, but we do a really nice chocolate cremeux dish, with set chocolate custard, Pedro Ximénez soaked raisins and caramelised white chocolate. It’s simple, but really indulgent.”

As Shears Yard moves into its second decade, Jamie remains focused on continuing to evolve the restaurant’s offering.

“The corporate side of things is doing really well, so we’re looking to develop that,” he said. “And Christmas is just around the corner, so we’re busy working on menus. We’re also planning collaborations with wine suppliers to create more unique pairings.”

Beyond business functions, his passion for creating exciting dishes remains at the heart of everything he does. His main goal for the future: to continue cooking the food he loves.

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