Owt Leeds: Head chef James Simpson discusses the next chapter of his French-inspired restaurant
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Taking its name from the idea that literally anything could appear on the menu, Owt is influenced by the changing of the seasons, the latest food trends, and the whim of its talented owners.
Head chef James Simpson, who runs the restaurant with wife Esther Miglio, described how their new space on Burley Road has allowed them to offer an evening service for the first time.
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Their staples include a famous chicken, mash and gravy dish, that sent customers into a frenzy when it first appeared on the menu back in 2018.
But for James, his journey into the culinary world began much earlier. Like many young chefs, the 34-year-old recalled having a huge love for food as a child.
“I started cooking for myself from a young age,” he said, recounting how he would often return from school and whip up a quick pasta dish to satisfy his youthful appetite.
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Hide AdTelevision helped spark the early interest in cuisine too. James remembered being glued to the screen when Keith Floyd was on, crediting the legendary chef as one of his early inspirations.
But food wasn’t just about sustenance, it was about community. Growing up, family meals, particularly at Christmas, showed him the magic of coming together over a shared meal.
“More than anything, I liked the idea of everyone getting together and pitching in,” he said, reflecting the philosophy that would later become a hallmark at Owt.
After finishing school, James worked in a chalet in the snowy Alps, where he was responsible for nine guests, handling everything from breakfast to three-course dinners. It was a gruelling six-day week, with 12-hour shifts described as “the hardest work I’ve ever done in my life”, but it was an invaluable introduction to the culinary grind.
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A stint at the Wimbledon Championships followed, where he worked in the press area kitchen during the tournament in his first major kitchen job.
It was after moving to Leeds for university that James started working at LS6 Cafe and, after three years, took over as head chef. However, he found himself overwhelmed by the relentless pace of the breakfast, lunch and dinner services.
“I’m a bit of a control freak, so I ended up being there a lot of the time,” he said. “I just wanted to make sure that standards were being maintained, but I worked myself into a bit of a state.”
The burnout was inevitable, leading to his departure in search of a new path. Around this time, James met Esther, and the couple’s shared love of food solidified their bond. The pair stumbled upon some retail units available in Kirkgate Market and they decided to take a leap of faith, opening the first iteration of Owt as a French market-inspired stall.
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Hide Ad“We decided to give it a go and see if we could do something small, kind of like how they do in France - if you go to the markets there, there'll normally be a stall cooking some of the produce from the surrounding market and providing very simple dishes at affordable prices, using fresh ingredients with only one or two things on the menu,” explained James.
Esther’s French heritage has also been a vital part of Owt’s identity, which is something that her husband has always admired. He said: “In France, everyone takes time out of their day for lunch. They sit down, enjoy their food, maybe have a glass of wine, and then go back to work. That’s what we wanted at Owt.”
With just a couple of dishes on the menu each week, it started small - but quickly gained a loyal following. The fried chicken dish - a boneless chicken thigh marinated, fried to order and served with buttery mash and a light chicken gravy - became a signature item.
James said: “People just absolutely lost it over the fried chicken. They loved it, and when it wasn't on the menu they'd ask when it was coming back.”
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The dish remains a staple more than six years and two locations later. It was clear that Owt had struck a chord in Kirkgate Market - and when the pandemic hit, the couple pivoted to a larger location in the Corn Exchange that offered more freedom.
However, sustaining the business without an evening presence proved challenging. Earlier this year, the team relocated to their current space on Burley Road, where they offer evening services. The menu at Owt has evolved along with the restaurant, James explained.
He said: “We change it pretty regularly. When we were in the market, that was once a week. There'd be two main options, one meat and one vegan. Then, when we moved to the Corn Exchange, we changed it on a monthly basis, which is what we stuck with.
“We design the menu around what we want to eat at that particular moment in time. It could be influenced by the weather, current trends, or just what's inspiring us. But there's always a little bit of a French twist to things, especially with the current menu - it's an homage to French bistro food.”
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Hide AdThis includes dishes like steak frites - a quality bavette steak served with house-made chips and a green sauce bursting with herbs, capers and garlic.
Beyond food, James and Esther were keen to build on the sense of community at the heart of the restaurant, with events like their upcoming 'Midnight Snack' party on November 2. James said the plan was for it to be like a “house party, but in a restaurant”, with the proceeds from ticket sales going to Love Leeds Parks, a charity aiming to create more green spaces in the city.
They're also a new addition on the Uber Eats app, as the restaurant’s evening services gather momentum. With Owt continuing in its new chapter, the ethos remains the same.
James said: “I like the respect that French people have for food. It's as much about the social aspect as it is about the eating. We wanted Owt to reflect that - it should be a comfortable place, like your living room, or a mate's house.”
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