Malmaison Leeds review: I tried this upmarket hotel bar with countless classic cocktails

It was a chilly evening at the start of the week and the thought of a boozy night out sounded somehow illegal.

So, to offset those concerns, we settled on a hotel bar as the venue of choice – a setting that seemed to justify drinking on a school night.

The first thing we noticed about the bar at the Malmaison, in Swinegate, is that it is very small.

When we arrived, it was bathed in the scarlet glow of an overhead neon sign.

"DON’T WORRY, HELP IS ON THE WAY,” it read in shouty capitals.

We sat close to the electric light feature, which had painted every face a deep shade of crimson. The punters nearby looked as thought they’d just returned from four nights in Benidorm.

At the bar, there was only room for six stools, all of which were occupied, and it only stretched to about four metres. That made for a slightly awkward ordering experience, as I poked my head clumsily into the pack.

Interrupting a conversation, I ordered an olive and lemon verbena martini. I was enacting my James Bond fantasy.

Served in a frosted coupe with a twist of lemon for garnish, the elegant simplicity in its presentation was faultless.

It was the kind of drink you’d hope for from an upmarket hotel bar in the city centre. And the taste didn’t disappoint either.

With Belvedere vodka and Martini vermouth, the crystal-clear spirit was punchy yet crisp, with cool citrus flavours to chase.

Then it was time for a Negroni, which is always a good litmus test of a bar. If the classics are right, then you know you’re in good hands.

A blend of bitter Campari, Martini vermouth, and Seven Hills gin, it was bold, botanical and delicious. The drink was garnished with a vibrant orange twist, enhancing the cocktail's aromatic profile with its citrus oils and zesty fragrance.

But while the drinks were top notch, there was an incongruity to the setting.

The Malmaison’s website says the bar is a “visual adventure”, but what was perhaps intended as eclectic design only felt haphazard to me.

Kitschy decor in a somewhat cramped corner seemed at odds with the rest of the room, which was sparse and pub-like.

The intended vibe wasn’t entirely clear. Did it want to be a glamorous hotel bar, a trendy high street venue, or a local boozer? I couldn’t tell.

All in all, and despite the superb selection of cocktails, I found the space lacking in that refined atmosphere you’d expected from a traditional hotel bar – and I wouldn’t blame patrons who might yearn for a touch more class.

Factfile

Address: Malmaison Leeds, Swinegate, LS1 4AG

Telephone: 0113 430 0144

Website: malmaison.com/locations/leeds

Scores

Drinks: 9/10

Value: 7/10

Atmosphere: 5/10

Service: 6/10