Leeds head chef and pub owner reveals why he once thought he would 'never chef again'

The Duke of Wellington stands proudly in the village of East Keswick.

Since 1777, the well-loved pub has been a charming, cosy spot for locals and visitors alike.

But for much of last year, the Duke of Wellington’s doors were shut as it underwent a major refurbishment.

It was a time of change not only for the historic pub, but also for its new head chef and owner James Key, who returned to the industry following years away from the kitchen.

James and his partner Nicola Bellamy, reopened the Duke of Wellington in December and they are now showing how to run a pub their way.

For James, cooking was a passion he discovered as a young teenager.

“I’ve always wanted to be a chef, I don’t know why. I just enjoyed cooking from an early age,” James told the Yorkshire Evening Post.

“I went to college but it wasn’t for me. I thought I’d learn more in the kitchen so I worked up and down the country learning as I go.”

One of James’ first kitchen jobs was working at Monkman’s Bistro in Pool-in-Wharfedale. It was an environment he described as “inspirational” and to this day, he is still friends with the “great chefs” he met there.

He moved on to The Devonshire Arms at Bolton Abbey where he became head chef just a few years later, before he went on to found the fine-dining restaurant Wild in Harrogate.

However, after a cancelled investment deal, James experienced a mental health breakdown and as a result, Wild shut its doors. At that point, James thought he was hanging up his apron for good.

James said: “When we closed the restaurant, that was the day I said I’d never chef again.

“I never lost my love for it but I thought I shouldn’t be doing it anymore.”

For six years, James stepped away from cooking completely as he highlighted the industry takes a mental toll on many.

“I’ve lost 28 chef friends of mine to suicide,” James said.

“(In the industry) there are problems thrown at you constantly. When you’re in the midst of it, you’re thinking on your feet on long days with late nights and early mornings. You don’t get much time to switch off.”

When James returned, he wanted to do things his way so he could find the same joy he had as a teenage trainee.

That’s why he decided to take over the Duke of Wellington with his partner Nicola and their ultimate aim is to prioritise happiness above all else.

James said: “Before I was very driven by chasing dreams whereas now I’m content with being happy, making sure the family are happy, and making sure the customers are happy.

“I’m in control of the job, the work, I cook what I want to cook and I enjoy it now more than I ever have done before.”

Since James and Nicola took over the pub, the Duke of Wellington is thriving. Earlier this year, the establishment was a finalist for Best Pub at the Oliver Awards and just last week staff member Abigail has been shortlisted for the Yorkshire Young Professional Awards.

Even more, the Duke of Wellington was selected by Yorkshire Evening Post readers as the best spot in Leeds for a Sunday Roast.

Sundays can be the busiest time at the Duke of Wellington with something to enjoy for all varieties of pub-goers.

James said: “It’s vibrant, booming, relaxed, and unpretentious.

“You can come with your dog, you can bring the children, have a pint in the tap room, or an experience in the restaurant - there’s an offering for everyone.”

After returning to the industry after a long break, James praised the support from the Burnt Chef Project which provides education, support, and resources to tackle mental health stigma within the hospitality industry.

Ultimately, he wants to highlight that it’s okay to reach out for help and that there is a brighter future which lies ahead.

James said: “There’s always hope at the end of the tunnel. You can come out of it.”