Restaurant review: Miller & Carter, The Headrow, Leeds

WE MEAT AGAIN: Miller and Carter, Leeds.
WE MEAT AGAIN: Miller and Carter, Leeds.
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Sometimes only a steak will do, At least that’s what my partner tells me.

And so we found ourselves at Miller and Carter, which has somewhat of a reputation for celebrating the best cuts of British and Irish.

You can’t escape the mission statement, ample bovine-inspired pictures dominate the walls, and the red-and-mahogany themed decor hasn’t changed since we last visited more than two years ago.

The plan was for a pre-cinema express dinner on a weeknight, and that’s what we got.

The restaurant, on the Headrow and near The Light, is a clear crowd-puller.

Even on a cold, wet and windy Leeds evening, it was about three quarters full, with a mix of clientele including couples, groups of friends and families.

We were seated near the window so we could watch the world go by, but regretted it later as the service was a 
little bit slow throughout the evening on our side of the room.

My companion is the true committed carnivore of the two of us, so he headed straight for the grill menu.

As we were on a quick stop-off, we bypassed starters.

My partner chose the slow-cooked, oak-smoked brisket (£16.50). This was a generously-portioned slab of beef glazed with a rich beef dripping sauce and served with creamy mashed potato, crispy onion loaf and tenderstem broccoli. The meat was melt-in-the mouth tender and the accompanying gravy was thick, rich and earthy with a good crack of seasoning. He adored it. The onion bread was a tasty accompaniment, and the mountain of creamy smooth mash was perfect.

I went for the charcoal and sea-salt cooked sea bass (£15.25) which was served with herb roasted baby potatoes, hot fennel relish, samphire and saffron aioli. The fish was well cooked although another 20 seconds in the pan would have made it perfect. The portion was again generous, and the sea-salt flavour was very strong. I had no objection to that. The potatoes were buttery and sumptuous, but there wasn’t enough sauce on the plate.

We decided to share a taster plate of desserts (£8.95) which included a gooey and gorgeous chocolate brownie, a beautifully velvety creme brulee and home-made shortbread with ice-cream.

The atmosphere was lively throughout our visit and the food had come out at a decent speed. The staff were friendly, but we did feel a little bit neglected nearer the end of the visit. After waiting 15 minutes after finishing our desserts, we eventually went to the counter to ask for the bill, which came to £45. Great food, just a little tweak in the service please.

Rating: 4/5