Restaurant review - Bengal Brasserie, Merrion Way, Leeds

Whatever the reason, it took the city’s commercial community a while to cotton on to the fact we now have a fabulous concert arena regularly drawing thousands to the city. Only now, five years after it opened, has the city grasped its economic potential by putting in place the bars and restaurants to feed and water the concertgoers.

Though the infrastructure work is ongoing – and the opposite side of the road remains a building site – the north face of the Merrion Centre has been transformed. Those heading for the arena face a host of choices from coffee bars to burger joints to restaurants, of which the most impressive is Bengal Brasserie, which has brought its own brand of Indian dining to this prime location.

The chain already has some notable branches – in the thriving heart of Oakwood, in Wetherby’s town centre, in student-heavy Burley, and close to York Minster – but this is their first foray into Leeds city centre.

It’s a Saturday evening when we call in and it seems to be doing a brisk trade, so it’s fortunate that we have taken the precaution to book ahead.

Its space is roughly divided into three. Stepping inside you first reach a sumptuous reception area with a long bar and deep comfortable sofas in a luxurious white leather. Other diners are taking a pre-dinner drink, some are relaxing with an after-dinner coffee, but we are whisked straight to our table in one of the semi-circular booths which line one side of the restaurant.

Plenty has been invested on the refurbishment of a space which was presumably once part of the grim Merrion Market. Palm trees and columns divide the dining area in two, in an attempt to create some intimacy, but high ceilings, gaudy neon lighting and the sheer throughput of people, ensure that this remains a lively, slightly noisy experience.

For us it’s made worse by our neighbours. The three middle-aged chaps seem to be regulars, and perhaps it’s the fact that the waiters are wise to their previous behaviour that has led to them being allotted a table in one corner of the restaurant, mimimising their impact on others. But when you are sat at the next table, with no insulation from their endless loud-mouthed language, you do wonder why they have been allowed in here at all. Certainly any hope we had of a quiet evening out is ruined by this triptych of idiots.

We try to deaden their sound with the crunch of poppadoms and some conversation of our own, before a pair of fine starters lift the mood.

The seabass tikka (£5.95) demonstrates the confidence and imagination of a restaurant thriving in this lively city centre location. A delicate sliver of barbecued fish has been dashed with herbs and spices and served with a crunchy salad and raita in a winning, light-touch combination.

The slabs of tandoori lamb chop (£4.95) are bigger, spicier and altogether less subtle; stripping the meat from the bone unleashes their hearty, juicy interior. A smear of sweet chilli sauce adds a further dimension to this splendid full-on assault.

By now we are making enthusiastic inroads on our bottle of the rich Short Mile Bay Shiraz (£15.95), though iced water is on hand for when our curries deliver their most devilish blows.

And though both our main courses provide a distinctive kick, neither quite reaches the heights achieved by the starters. My wife has gone for the Shabji Balti (£7.95), a sizzling black skillet of chickpeas, potatoes and mixed vegetables, held together by a spicy balti sauce. Slithers of green chilli lend their aggressive fiery nature to my Handi Gosht (£8.95), its character softened by fresh coriander.

All of which is fine, of course it is. We dine well, enjoy each other’s company – and come away not only feeling full, but also that we’ve had great value for money.

But eating out in the city centre should be more fulfilling than this. The food – and here I’m chiefly talking about the main courses – should dazzle and surprise in a way that you wouldn’t expect of your local takeaway; the atmosphere shouldn’t be ruined by the rudest of companions at a neighbouring table.

Perhaps I’m judging this too harshly. I guess if you’re heading for a night at the arena and want something that’s a marked step-up from the burger and fried chicken outlets nearby, then this could be quite the place for some quick-and-easy, cut-priced restaurant dining.

But if my meal is to be the focal point of my evening, my highlight of the day – without the prospect of heading off to some fantastic concert afterwards – I’d think twice about returning.

FACTFILE

Address: 5 Merrion Way, Leeds, LS2 8BT

Telephone: 0113 243 6318

Opening times: Noon-2.30pm and 5pm-11.30pm Mon-Sat; noon-10.30pm Sun

Website: www.bengal-brasserie.com

Ratings:

Food: ***

Value: ****

Atmosphere: **

Service: ***