Holidaying on the Yorkshire coast this summer? Seek out this delectable gem of a walk

Holidaying on the East Coast this summer?
Head for the coast to seek out this delectable gem.Head for the coast to seek out this delectable gem.
Head for the coast to seek out this delectable gem.

Then take this cutting with you and soak up the splendour of the cliff-top Cleveland Way path at one of Yorkshire’s most idyllic coastal locations, Hayburn Wyke.

A combination of the old Scarborough-Whitby rail bed for the outward leg and the towering cliffs betwixt Scarborough and Ravenscar for the return put this circuit in the Premier League.

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The never seen before photos of Scarborough through the ages
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The old rail line is a joy, unlike many of its brethren which invariably run through deep cuttings with high bankings which cut out light and views. There are plenty of open aspects on the Whitby line with, every so often, extensive vistas rightwards across the fields to the sea.

Cloughton – pronounced Clowton, not Clufton or Clawton – is the perfect starting point to explore the delectable rocky inlets and coves north of Scarborough. Cloughton has a long history, being founded by the Saxons who gave it its name of “valley farm” from the Old English cloh (a ravine or clough) and tun (a farm or settlement).

Domesday Book tells us that, after the Norman conquest of 1066, the manor of Clotune was shared between the king himself, his half-brother, the Count of Mortain, and William de Percy, who sub-feud his portion to a tenant named Richard.

Behind the village is a sandstone quarry dating back to medieval times; locals claim it provided the stone for Scarborough Castle. Cloughton’s biggest house, Cober Hill, was the home of Sir Frank Lockwood, a celebrated lawyer of the 19th century, who rose to become Solicitor General and of whom Lord Roseberry once said: “His cheerfulness would dispel a London fog.”

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In the village church is a window dedicated to his much-loved figure. It shows the Judgement of Solomon and refers to an incident early in the great man’s career at York Assizes when a young girl, facing a murder charge, had no representation and the judge asked if anyone would defend her – and the young Frank Lockwood stepped into the breach.

PARKING: Cloughton lies astride the A171 Scarborough-Whitby road four miles north of Scarborough. Approaching from Scarborough, go past the Blacksmith’s Arms and the Red Lion and then, when road sweeps left, turn right into Newlands Road and immediately turn right again along Newlands Lane and follow this to its end to a parking area overlooking Cloughton Wyke. If full, return to Newlands Road and park there or in Newlands Lane on edge of village.

CLOUGHTON WYKE AND HAYBURN WYKE

7 miles: Allow 3 – 4 hours. 
Map O/S OL 27 North York 
Moors Eastern area

From the parking area at the end of Newlands Lane overlooking the sea at Cloughton Wyke, set out along the road back towards Cloughton and, after half a mile, on crossing a bridge over the old Scarborough-Whitby railway, turn right at fingerpost for Cinder Track.

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Stay on the upper path – ignore steps to your right – to join the rail bed and march briskly ahead with views opening up occasionally to the North Sea. This is unknown Newlands Dale.

The 21-mile-long Scarborough–Whitby line opened in 1885 bringing in the first influx of tourists who alighted at the long-gone Hayburn Wyke Station with their picnic baskets and headed for the tiny bay of Hayburn Wyke, using the adjoining Hayburn Wyke Hotel (now the Hayburn Wyke Inn) for accommodation. The rail line, despite its great beauty and coastal location, was never a financial success. It was axed by Dr Beeching in 1965.

After about one and a half miles, cross over a road with a fingerpost pointing right to the Hayburn Wyke Inn – a former smugglers’ haunt - which is just round the corner, should you be in need of refreshment (a path leads out of the pub car park back to the rail bed).

1: Continue along the rail track, go under two bridges in the next mile and then go past a real whiff of nostalgia, the former Staintondale Station (closed March 8, 1965; now a private residence), to a gate across the track. Ignore a stile on right. Follow rail bed for another couple of hundred yards and look out keenly for a second stile on your right with yellow arrow – don’t miss this vital turn!

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Cross the stile and go forward to find a path down through the gorse, through a gate across track and down to a footbridge and ford at a beck. Go up other side to strike a farm road (Plane Tree Cottage to left) and turn RIGHT.

Follow the road past an entrance to the famed Staintondale Shire Horse Farm on your left to gain the gable end of a building ahead (Whitehouse Farm) and, here, turn left past a blue sign: Unsuitable for motor vehicles.

Go past barns and through gate with the North Sea opening up to your right. Follow the tarred track with a grass centre strip to a fork with a barn (the OK Corral) – part of the Shire Horse Farm - to your left and take the right branch which sweeps right as a lovely green track.

Go through a gate (open, on our visit) with pond ahead and turn RIGHT to a gate. Go through and continue with hedge on your right (no path, the best ground being a few yards left of hedge). At field end, go through gate and straight across field heading for the red roofs of Red House Farm.

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Enter farm road, turn right for 50 yards to a marker post on left with white arrow and, here, go slightly left (as arrow) over the meadow to a wood where you will find another marker post. Enter wood (steps) and turn left, soon joining the Hayburn Beck and follow it on an exciting journey along its left bank. Eventually, at marker post with arrows, turn right over footbridge and up the other side.

Press on for a few hundred yards to a cross track and turn left. Within a few yards, at fork, turn left to a Cleveland Way fingerpost for Scarborough and Ravenscar and go past it for Ravenscar when a view opens up of the boulder-strewn shore at Hayburn Wyke, the perfect picnic spot.

Hayburn Wyke – wyke or wike is Scandinavian for a sheltered inlet or bay – was once a popular Victorian visitor attraction with its own station and hotel just above the cliffs.

After drinking in the scene at Hayburn Wyke, retrace your steps to the Cleveland Way fingerpost and turn left for Scarborough.

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2: Climb steeply out of the Wyke, up steps, to arrive at a boulder and viewpoint and turn right to an almost-immediate marker post and turn right (arrow). Follow this good path, eventually up steps, to a three-sided fingerpost and turn left for Scarborough on another lung-bursting climb to, finally, gain level ground on the cliff top.

Now enjoy the rewards of the uphill grind and stroll along the edge of the world overlooking the North Sea. The views increase in grandeur with Scarborough Castle way ahead in the distance.

This cracking section ends all too soon after a mile at a 3-sided fingerpost and bench – take the lefthand path for Cleveland Way, soon descending towards Cloughton Wyke.

On entering a wood, the path begins a steep descent on stone steps which require care at all times (hand rail) and particularly so in the wet. The path leads unerringly to another picturesque gem, Cloughton Wyke, and a 3-sided fingerpost. Turn right for Cloughton and climb steeply up the steps to the parking area and the finish.