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As someone who has long had a gluttonous appetite for pizza, it takes some doing to find something that takes me aback.

But the Detroit-style deep pan pizzas from Well Oiled – with their caramelised crusts, potent flavour combos and gorge-like doughy density – are something to behold.

The pizza providers have set up shop within the Meanwood Tavern, which itself only opened at the back end of 2022 following a £150,000 renovation that fitted the former site of East of Acardia with a classic, speakeasy-style bar and lush, traditional interior. And judging by the huge turnout of pint wielding punters and the buzzing atmosphere when me and a mate visited on the night before New Year's Eve, it has already been a hit with locals.

The venue is very much a bar before a diner, with no pre-booking available and the hubbub of drinking sessions a constant. But for those not after a formal, sit down meal it is ideal an ideal to grab a craft beer and some good grub.We found the menu to be refreshingly concise, offering three different pizza options by-the-slice which we decided to get one of each of to sample the variety. Sharing pizzas can also be ordered for groups and there is a selection of table sharers and garlic donut breads to boot.

There was a great atmosphere at The Meanwood Tavern

The food is also ordered at the bar and, in our case, was brought to the table at breakneck speed. We had hardly sat back down before the starter we went for – garlic focaccia with black hummus, fermented pepper hot sauce and turbo chimichurri – had been delivered. One tear of the raved about bread, a dip into the voluptuous dips and a satisfied gasp of “Mate” from my friend and it was clear we were on to a winner.

Our four slices of dense, rectangular pizza were dropped on the table shortly after and though there was some confusion over which was which, we found our way through them eventually and dived in. The vast blankets of fluffy dough were topped with sumptuously oily tomato sauce and in each case, whether it be the pepperoni or two vegetarian options topped with subtly potent cheese and smatterings of herbs, there was a simple authenticity that made for a great experience.

Full to the brim, the portion sizes were just the right side of gratuitous and left us sipping our delightful pale ales to see off the night. And at just over £40 for the four slices, two pints and starter, the prices were more than reasonable.

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