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Restaurant review: Gusto, Cookridge

The last time Little Oliver dropped into Gusto the place hadn't long been opened.

It had just morphed from being an Est Est Est. Things could only get better, we thought.

And yet we weren't that impressed.

This new restaurant looks great, ambient, cosy, with the odd flash of gold here and there, low-level lighting hovering atmospherically above each table and an open kitchen in the corner.

They're obviously going for a sophisticated look, understated with the odd flash of glitz here and there. And it works, and works well. In fact it's heartening to see somewhere so plush out in the suburbs.

But on our previous visit the food was nothing to shout about, this time it was much improved – even though we were served a plate of Italian breads (at 3.25) one of which we could have smashed a window with. Never mind.

I went for a bowl of creamy salmon penne which was well seasoned and a superb balance of flavours. The pasta was perfectly cooked, firm and resistant to the tendency for such dishes to end up in one great big mush.

My dining partner had the bacon risotto which was another compendium of great flavours and beautifully presented too. Both dishes were just under 10.

Don't be fooled – although the portions here aren't big they do fill you up nicely. Don't come here to be rolled out the door but do come here if you fancy something a little bit different.

For example, we had two desserts of a chocolate and Nutella calzone and a banoffee Eton Mess, both were gorgeous and not bad at around 5 each.

Even the house white was a delightful nutty number and not too bad at 3.40 and 4.85 for a small and large glass respectively.

The final bill came to a not insubstantial 47, which isn't bad for a two-course meal with wine and a couple of coffees. But Gusto certainly isn't cheap – it isn't budget dining where it's piled high and sold cheap.

But it is very tasty stuff, the service was flawless (the waiting staff here are particularly attentive without being intrusive) and the atmosphere of the place quickly livened up as it filled up, even on a mid-week night.

Plus, there's something particularly heartening about having somewhere like this on the doorstep.

Rating: 4/5


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Thursday 09 February 2012

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