Roland's Leeds review: Here's what I thought of this classy wine bar with outdoor terrace in the city centre

Toffee-nosed critics who fill columns denouncing perfectly good bottles of supermarket plonk – while proselytising the attributes of some obscure vintage – do more to scare off those with a genuine curiosity for wine than they do to encourage the burgeoning enthusiast.
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That’s why unfussy bars like Roland’s, in Call Lane, are worth their weight in gold.

While the venue itself is as smart as you’d expect from a city centre watering hole, easy-going staff make choosing a bottle far less daunting than it could be. And given the sheer generosity of its wine list, that’s no easy feat.

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We visited on a bustling Saturday night, when experts behind the bar dedicated more time to us than perhaps they could have afforded to.

Staff at Roland’s, in Call Lane, Leeds, make choosing a bottle of wine far less daunting than it could be. Photo: Steve Riding.Staff at Roland’s, in Call Lane, Leeds, make choosing a bottle of wine far less daunting than it could be. Photo: Steve Riding.
Staff at Roland’s, in Call Lane, Leeds, make choosing a bottle of wine far less daunting than it could be. Photo: Steve Riding.

We were unsure where to start as we leafed through the drinks menu, but it was thanks to their helpful guidance that we settled on ‘Annie’, the bar’s bold and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon.

Named after the venue’s handsome Shih Tzu, a charming picture of the pup adorns the front of the bottle, giving a clue to the bar’s playful approach to wine.

It’s imported from France and is smooth and fruity, with hints of tobacco – or so I’m told by the label. Simply put, it’s delicious and drinkable, with beautiful tall glasses that seem to make the wine disappear.

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We’ve visited Roland’s before and it’s always a winner. On our last visit, we couldn’t decide between two wines, so were encouraged to go for them both. It was good advice.

Roland's bold and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon is delicious and drinkable.Roland's bold and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon is delicious and drinkable.
Roland's bold and full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon is delicious and drinkable.

More than anything, it’s just a fabulous place to drink. The outdoor terrace with its tall, elegant stools and cosy heaters make it a casual spot to enjoy wine the way it’s meant to be enjoyed – without too much fuss.

Factfile

Address: 39 Call Ln, Leeds, LS1 7BT

Telephone: 0113 318 2964

Opening hours: Thur-Fri, 2pm-1am; Sat, 12pm-1am; Sun, 12pm-12am; Mon-Tue, 4pm-12am; Wed, 2pm-12am

Website: rolandsleeds.co.uk

Scores

Drinks: 10/10

Value: 9/10

Atmosphere: 10/10

Service: 10/10

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