Beer of the Week: Lord of Misrule from Bradford Brewery

In the 18 months or so since it opened, Bradford Brewery has carved a seriously strong reputation, both in the city and further afield. It plugged a significant gap in the market, bringing the industry back to a city centre whose last brewery, Hammonds, closed in 1955.

It is a symbol of the long-awaited renaissance of Bradford, bringing to the city centre the kind of confident, intelligent, fun, stylish, hip beer venue that most other cities have seen springing up over the past ten or 15 years.

Taking as its emblem the boar depicted on the football club crest, and with beer names like Odsal Top and Northern Soul, this brewery is fiercely, determinedly and proudly Bradford.

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The tradition of appointing a Lord of Misrule to preside over festival revelries dates back to pagan times; a bottle or two of this formidable stout could easily herald the start of some latter-day chaos. Charcoal and smoky roast meats provide an aroma of foreboding, before Lord of Misrule breaks onto the palate with a burst of burnt toast a rich, oily lathering of Turkish Coffee.

This is certainly not a session beer, but the excellent Lord of Misrule is the perfect symbol of a brewery on the up.