But it's actually rather bijou and, in terms of physical size, fitting of its official title of being a wine bar. This is misleading, however, since this belies the fact that food is a big part of what they do here.

It does boast wine bar proportions, the bar itself seems to dominate the place and even though there are quite a few tables you could imagine it being overwhelmed by after-work drinkers.

And yet dining here is a joy, a joy which increasing numbers of people are experiencing as it gains a name for itself. A deserved name.

Even before considering the menu you're comforted on arrival by the rather stylish, inviting surroundings. Renovated in the heart of the Holbeck Urban Village the building follows the same vein as its neighbours in that it was rescued from post-industrial decline by a rather chic makeover.

Bare brick walls, bare floorboards and large windows make this look every inch the cool hang-out it needs to be to satisfy the local clientele.

In chillier months everything stays inside but in the summer there are quite a number of tables outside which spread the socialising into the yard.

Dining remains largely inside though and more formal.

The menu is very impressive with some rather special mains and some even more special specials.

Most of the offerings are classics with a twist. Like my own roast half duck with a mouth-watering blackcurrant sauce. This was perfectly cooked and packed with meat. The meat was also not too fatty, which isn't easy to avoid with duck. The sauce, meanwhile, was the perfect balance of bitter and sweet, clearly carefully devised for a savoury main.

My dining partner went for the seabass which, she reported, was just as impressive.

Both our mains cost around £15, which isn't cheap, but they were both options which would have proved expensive in any restaurant and we felt we got our money's worth. Besides, we had two side orders of spinach and carrot and swede which only cost £2.50 each.

The deserts were also classics. My dining partner had the creme brulee which, let me reassure you, had precisely the right crunch on penetration with the spoon, my own hot chocolate fudge was particularly strong but gratifying nonetheless, plus, good value at roughly a fiver each.

With coffee our bill came to just shy of £60 which wasn't too bad but with starters and wine this could have nudged £90 – £100. It ain't cheap but then this is a first rate restaurant and you get what you pay for, so long as you are prepared to pay.

Service was good and attentive without being two invasive. We were pretty much left on our own rather than being constantly pestered (why is over-politeness a growing phenomenon these days?)

Best of all they didn't stick a service charge on top, which I was impressed with, though of course we still tipped our waitress who had been very efficient throughout.

Forget the title 'wine bar' this is much more than a place to come for a drink, far from the food being ancillary to the wine, it's more the other way round.

It's small compared with other eateries in Leeds but that only adds to the intimacy. That said, it can be quiet in the week, particularly during the day but even as we sat in a virtually empty restaurant we still felt very comfortable. Even without the buzz of a big crowd there's still a certain atmosphere here – and if you insist on the big buzz then drop in of a weekend, you'll find it alright.

The Foundry is incredibly stylish without being overbearing and the food is what makes it a top-class venue. It might not represent the best value for money but it's worth shelling out for, that's beyond doubt.

And above all else you're unlikely to find anywhere else in Leeds which gives you such a warm glow inside like this restaurant does..


FACTFILE

The Foundry, 1 Saw Mill Yard, Leeds, LS11 5WH

Tel. 0113 2450390

Opening hours: Lunch: Mon-Fri 12-2.30pm , Mon-Sat 6-10pm, closed on Sunday

Star rating

FOOD.........................****

VALUE........................***

ATMOSPHERE...................****

SERVICE......................****

***** EXCELLENT **** VERY GOOD *** GOOD ** AVERAGE * POOR