Published Date:
03 June 2006
Oliver
Jino's
OXFORD ROAD, GUISELEY
TUCKED away on a street corner a quarter mile from the centre of Guiseley is a dazzling new addition to the town's thriving eating-and-drinking scene.
It might not have the attractive broad frontage of its near neighbour Zen Rendezvous, the famous name traditions of Harry Ramsden's or the "Position A" location of Damn Yankee, but Jino's stylish interior, exemplary service, great value and quality Thai food make it well worth seeking out.
So. From Leeds follow the A65 into the centre of Guiseley, and then turn right at the Station pub, over the railway bridge and uphill into an area where little shops sit cheek-by-jowl with desirable housing.
Jino's is up here on your left.
You might easily drive past and not notice it, or assume it is just another takeaway. Or you'll do what we did, and only spot it when you've almost gone past, and then have to keep going to the mini roundabout at the top of the hill before turning around to find somewhere to park.
Plenty have found it, judging by our visit last Saturday evening when it was doing a roaring trade with a well-dressed and apparently well-heeled clientele.
We may have fitted neither description but were nonetheless warmly greeted as we stepped over the threshold into a stylish little bar area where diners were enjoying their pre-meal drinks.
An elegant carving of a giant-tusked elephant guards the way through to an intimate and minimalistically-designed dining room of simple pine tables and chairs, plain white walls broken only by arty uplighters and interesting Oriental prints.
Unobtrusive middle-of-the-road music trips delicately from the sound system while giant ceiling fans whirr lazily around, though given the Guiseley climate, relative to that of say, Phuket, they seemed more ornamental than functional.
And it was here we embarked on our 90-minute adventure through jungles of chopped vegetable, mazes of spice and swamps of curry.
I suppose 40 years ago, names such as "chow mein", "won ton" and "char siu" would have seemed new and dangerous. But just as they have been assimilated into the argot of the western diner, so dishes like Gaeng Ped and Mamuang Himmaparn are gradually gathering familiarity, given the massive increase in popularity of Thai food over here as new restaurants open and more people return from holidays out east with a new vocabulary of Pads, Paks, Priks, Tongs, and Khings. I was only surprised not to find a Weeping Tiger on the menu at Jino's. Maybe they've been hunted into extinction.
We ordered two finger-food starters, though ended up sharing. My partner went for the Satay Hed (£3.40), a kidney-shaped bowl of big juicy mushrooms which had been lightly grilled on long bamboo skewers.
They were served with two dipping sauces, one quite mild with peppers and onions, the other a more powerful satay, complete with chunks of peanut.
I'd gone for the Poh Piah (£2.60), small tubes of a very light, fragile pastry stuffed with chicken, vegetables and noodles.
These came with a bright red sweet chilli sauce, though we actually chose to mix and match as the spring rolls worked equally well with the satay sauce and the mushrooms with the sweet chilli.
Other starters include the Dao Hu Tod, deep fried tofu pieces; the Kanom Pang Nah Gai, deep-fried bread with minced chicken and herbs and the Tod Mun Pla, Thai spicy fish cakes. There's also something called a Tung Tong, but I'm sure she's a character in Little Britain.
Staff buzz around in their simple uniforms of deep blue company T-shirts and blue jeans – a contrast to the often opulent and ornate dress worn by waiting staff at some Thai restaurants. But despite the informality, one thing you soon notice here is the quality of the service they provide.
It's not just that they have a decent number of staff serving, but more the fact that their regular inquiries of "is everything all right with your meal?" seem genuine, rather than some perfunctory reflex.
You get the impression that if anything really were wrong, they would do their utmost to sort it out.
The main courses soon followed,though not before we had made a significant dent in a bottle of a really rich, fruity, jammy Custom Made Zinfandel, from California's Central Valley. This was a great choice, but we also had a couple of bottles of ice cold Harrogate Spa Water on hand too.
Which is a good thing, seeing as my main course was a really spicy choice. This was the prawn Pad Prik Gaeng (£6.55), whose attractive colours – red and green peppers, green beans, spring onions, pale bamboo shoots and the pinks of the tiger prawns – disguised a deadly secret.
For the sauce here was devilishly spicy, and though it was thin rather than clingy it had worked its way into every subtle opening of the vegetables. It was truly delicious, but I was glad of the palate-reviving chill of the water, and the fact my partner had chosen something less in-yer-face than mine.
She had opted for the creamy chicken Penaeng (£6.20), a Thai curry, but with much less fire than the Pad Prik Gaeng, and where any hint of aggression was softened by a rich coconut milk sauce.
There was plenty else in here, like onions, basil, peppers and lime leaves, but it was its soothing qualities I liked the best.
Other interesting-sounding main courses include the haddock curry Pla Shu Shi; the black bean noodle dish Laat Naa; the sweet and sour Pad Priew Wan – and lovers of traditional Thai red and green curries will be delighted to know they'll be well catered for here too.
Both our main courses included rice, which makes for cracking value. It was a generous portion too, a sizeable hillock of fluffy boiled rice on each plate.
Ice cream
Desserts followed, naturally. Regular readers will know of my inestimable love of fried banana so it was no surprise that I opted for the Guey Tod (£3.50), hunks of banana wrapped in a really light and crispy coconutty-batter. It was all topped with a big blob of vanilla ice cream and rounded my meal off perfectly.
There are a few other Oriental dessert choices – rambutans, lychees, Thai Custard – but my partner was seduced by the offer of Haagen Dasz ice cream, choosing, as sure as night follows day, Belgian Chocolate flavour.
We followed all this up with coffee – one espresso and one cappucino before being faced with a bill for a staggeringly good value £46.
And that included a £15 bottle of wine. Fantastic.
FACTFILE
Tel: 01943 877729
Opening hours:
Closed Mon. Sun-Thurs 5pm-10pm.
Fri-Sat 5pm-11pm
Credit cards: welcome
Children: welcome
Parking: on street areas nearby
Disabled access: all on one flooor
Star Ratings
FOOD.......................................................HHHH
VALUE .................................................HHHHH
ATMOSPHERE .....................................HHH
SERVICE ...............................................HHHH
HHHHH EXCELLENT HHHH VERY GOOD HHH GOOD
HH AVERAGE H POOR
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Location:
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